That site says Arctic Cat and Polaris kits contain bushings only. It doesn't have roller bearings.

 

Ah yes. And the ALL ***** ones looks similar

 

OK. Just a few questions on what has turned out to be a partial front end rebuild. I installed my new tie rod ends today. No problems with those. Inner and outer on both sides. But my question is what will I have to further remove (and in what sequence) to:

- replace an inner u-joint on the right side
- replace a arm bushings on both sides

Will I be able to simply remove the lower ball joint nut and swing it down and out of the way to get at the a arm bushings? And once I have the right side removed, I assume my axle assembly will just slide out so I can get at the u-joint and move the whole thing to the bench?

Also, with the front end jacked up in the middle and both sides of the suspension, etc just hanging, should the top of the strut mounts be loose when you wiggle them? I remember on our old vw there used to be a strut bearing under there that often needed replaced and you'd hear a thump going over bumps. Can you tighten these down or do you need to?

Thanks for any help.

 

Just remove the nut holding the a-arm to the strut. If you have a "pickle fork separator" as I call em,just put it between the a-arm and lower strut and give it a sharp whack with a hammer.Or just whack it close to the strut with a dead blow hammer. The a-arm will pop off the strut and ball joint and you can swing it down out of the way. Important to start removing a-arm bolts at the same time!! If you take one side out,the other can just turn on the shaft. I used an impact on the outer bolt to loosen a bit,then a ratchet wrench to break loose the other end bolt.Then a little on each end loosening. Top of the strut has two plastic pivot *****,top and bottom. Just check that the top strut nut is tight.Use a shop rag,large vice grips to hold the cartridge shaft close to the top to see if it's tight. If there is a lot of up and down play on the strut assy,then pivot ***** may be worn and need replacing. Items #4,6.Dirt Cheap Yamaha & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Once everything is done,you need to align the front end. Have someone hold the bars tight and straight! Take a staight 1x4,2x4 or an aluminum stud(like we used at the shop) place against the rear tire,then turn the tie rod in or out to get about 3/8" toe out on the front tire.Then tighten both nuts. Same for the other side. Make sure the bars are held straight. Finger's are tired,YOU need a manual.. 2005 Polaris ATP 500 Service Manual PDF Download

 

What u-joints? Prop shaft?

 

No. Inner on the front axle.

 

I'm sure the nut on top of the strut is tight as it looks pretty rusted in place. I'll check the pivot ***** as well. Thanks for the manual link. I've been working on plastic cleaning and cosmetics while I am waiting for parts to come. It's looking pretty spiffy!

 

Sure you have a 2005 model ATP 500? Shows cv joints at the differential,not u-joints like the older models.Dirt Cheap Yamaha & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

hmmm...just looked at video on YouTube of an 04 and it has u-joints. Maybe its an 04 I have then. Was told it was an 05. No papers.


UPDATE: yep....its an O4 model. Besides the front axle difference, off hand do you know of any other compelling changes between these years? This one has the turf mode, all plastics seem compatible.

 

2004 had the u-joints.2005 was the changeover year to cv joints. But you can still pull the strut outwards enough to get the cv out of the strut,then jerk the drive shaft to remove it from the front diff. Then you can replace worn u-joints on the work bench. Dirt Cheap Yamaha & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse