Great. I ordered a new u-joint from NAPA the other day. Thanks for aging my bike another year! I appreciate all your valuable insight with this new project of mine.

 

If you ever have problems with the turf mode,it's usually because of of the solenoid.Item #14 Dirt Cheap Yamaha & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Good to know. I'll more than likely use that mode quite abit pulling a garden trailer around the yard.

 

I'm planning on doing this to my bike as well. Any tips or recommended products for the cleaning of the bike and plastics?

 

I just did a wash with dish soap, scuffed and smoothed them up slightly with 00 steel wool and did the old 60/40 paint thinner to boiled linseed oil trick. Several videos on YouTube. Simple to do and they look really good. Just leave the thinner/oil on for about 5 min or so to penetrate.

They weren't real heavily faded or oxidized but bad enough that they needed a refresh. You can't even tell where I peeled off the old ripped up decals.

 

No problem dropping the a arm. I ended up just flipping over the castle nut and tapping on it gently after PB blasting it abit. I tugged on the drive shaft and it popped out of the differential ok but it does not seem to want to come out of the strut. Since it was easy on the diff side, should I re-install and try to knock it out on the strut side? I assume this is just a spring bearing giving a bit of grief in the strut.

Edit....ahhh crap. I forget the axle nut removal. Glad I didn't struggle too long.

 

U-joint successfully installed. A little tricky getting the old one out. I remember how slick the mechanics at the GM dealer I used to work at made it look. Just hit the centre of the joint with the torch and burn it out. Stinky smokey but took about 5 seconds. Of course, this was on trucks and cars.

I was wondering how much strut disassembly is required to replace those pivot *****? I don't want to get into specialty tools and strut compressors but can they be replaced without going too deep? I see there is a 3/8 head at the top of the strut shaft to put a wrench on to hold while you take off the 3/4 nut. I tried snugging them down but they didn't move much. Do the pivot ***** just sit on either side of the strut bracket attached to the frame and the strut guts don't need to come apart to replace them? While I am this far into the front end, I may as well replace them too.

I couldn't tell from the parts fiche.

 

Just take a large pair of vice grips and a shop cloth. Wrap around the jaws of the vice grips,grab the cartridge shaft towards the top. Takes a 5/8" wrench if I remember correctly to loosen the top nut(depends on model). Make sure you have the tire under the strut as it comes down.Once the nut is off,remove the big washer, rubber washer and top plastic pivot. Pull the strut down enough to pull the ball pivot over the 3/4 cartridge nut and replace with the new one.Slide the assy back up,install the new top pivot,rubber and steel washer. Tighten the nut while still holding the shaft with the vice grips. A lot easier with air tool by the way,but do it the best way you can.

 

Ok. Thanks. I think I will order them. On to my next question...my new a arm bushings arrived yesterday. One side of my bike was terribly wobbly. The PO said that he swapped in a used arm on one side (I think it was this wobbly side) but not 100% sure. The wobbly side looked like it was missing a bushing but upon a closer look not sure now.

The "good" side has a grease zerk on the arm and brass bushings that sit behind the poly bushing inserts and it appears solid and tight. Is this the original arm? I don't see the brass bushing in the parts fiche but wondering if it's a permant fixture on the arm itself.

The "bad" side a arm has not grease zerk and no brass bushings on the arm itself. Mounting tabs for the axle protectors are also different on each arm. Part of what made it wobbly was the fact that the front hole on the frame was worn oblong. The 14mm bolt I removed even had a notch where it was rubbing. How the heck am I ever going to get that tight again?

So a few questions....(1) which is the original a arm? The one with the brass bushings and the zerk or the one without .

(2) any suggestions how to fix the oblong shaped mounting hole? jb weld? Some sort of insert? I

(3) I plan on putting a zerk in the a arm so it matches and I can prevent issues in the future.

 

Good question as the a-arms and bushings kept changing over the years.Replacement parts break down just lists the plastic bushings,a-arms with no zerk fittings or brass bushings listed on your model.Dirt Cheap Yamaha & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse But if you look at the new one on ebay that shows your part#,comes with the brass bushings and zerk fittting.http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-ATV-A-ARM-KIT-2202284-067-2201611-067-/390131793050?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ad5aabc9a&vxp=mtr I've found too when ordering kits that many had changed from what was originally on the machine.Most I believe have gone back to zerk fittings on oem replacements.If one you order doesn't have a zerk fitting,easy to install one.