Sounds like clutch bushings or guide buttons are probably worn out causing the clutch to stick. If that's the problem,I've seen some so worn out that the counter weights would hit the clutch shaft and stick,not allowing full operation of the clutch in or out.Same thing on guide button area of the spider. If it's deeply grooved,can affect operation. Might as well figure the rear clutch would need new ramp buttons while you're at it.No sense having to pull the cover twice.Look at the old man's video where he replaces the inner and cover bushing also. Or could be the shaft is rusted if enough moisture got to it. Yes a 3/4" x 16 thread bolt about 8 inches long would work. Even a shorter bolt using an old socket that fits in the hole would work to pop the clutch off.

 

Are the guide buttons the black dots he is talking about?

 

yes,6 of them. I've seen them worn down flat and made deep grooves where they glide on the spider.

 

New issue. I got the clutch freed up. Brake cleaner and working in and out. Now, the centre bolt on the drive clutch moves rearward when revved. This seems like a bad thing.

 

See if you can tighten the bolt if it's loose. Torques to 40 ft pounds if you have a torque wrench. If you don't just zap the bolt with an impact. Clutch action should look like this.

 

The bolt connects to crankshaft right? What if that's the issue. Pull motor apart?

 

It is tight.

 

Whole clutch moves.

 

Clutch unit is supposed to move,except the rear sheath.It just spins in place. Rare occasions I've seen spiders not torqued down enough and outer clutch sheath would sort of free wheel.

 

Wish I could post a vid