OPT - Thanks for all you do here. Wondering what causes this sheering? Meaning besides the possible design or manufacturing defect possibilities, is there something as users we can do/not do to attempt to prevent this? Thanks.

 

Could be it's just the design of this Fugi engine even though all the other Fugi engines share the same basic starting procedure. Stress and shock that the gear shaft puts on the flywheel ring over time when starting starts the wearing down of the flywheel key. Possible that the flywheel slot is too large, or woodruff keys are too soft. Or may have something to do with the compression release device at the end of the cam as it wears and the return spring looses tension.This can put added pressure on the flywheel. Could be any of these,but strange thing about it is that in all most all cases the flywheel nut is still tight when this happens. But after all the ones I've seen happen I really think the flywheel keys are really the weak link. The crank shafts are tapered and flywheels are really compressed tight and even if the key splits in half you still have to have a flywheel puller to remove it.

 

Then I probably should have one on hand; so it won't happen!

Recently my battery grew old enough to weaken and not hold a charge over a couple weeks, so i used the pull start for the first time, suprisingly easy! Is pull starting any easier on the weak links do you think over electric starting or no difference in stress to the system? :^)

 

Pull starting may take a little of the initial shock and stress from the outer part of the flywheel,the force of starting is more towards the strength of the flywheel itself which are the molded in starting tabs the recoil ratchet grabs,but I still think the woodruff key is the weak link no matter which way it's started. If Fuji had used a larger flywheel key,say a 6 mm key,then possibly this wouldn't have ever been a problem. Plus here's something to keep in the memory bank that I've found that does make a little sense on the flywheel and shaft."My suggestion would be to pull the flywheel right now, and inspect the tapers. Originally, they were perfectly smooth, almost a mirror like finish on them.
If you find anything other than that, you can lap them yourself. Get some valve lapping compound, in the fine grit, and put a line on the crank taper, then slide the flywheel on and put pressure against the tapers and rotate it back and forth. You don't need to spin it, work it back and forth in about 1/4 turn movements and then release the pressure, turn it 1/4 turn and work it back and forth again. When you don't feel the grit any more, remove the flywheel and add more lapping compound. Repeat this process till you get it as smooth as possible. I truly suspect what happened was the nut on the end of the crank was under torqued the first time, and then it was not properly repaired, and that caused the repeat failure."

 

hi opt hope you had a great day. you know i bought this machine new and it was the first year of the EBS system , i have had a lot of problems with the starter and it seems like the EBS works against the starter the place i bought it from rebuilt the starter three times and while still under warranty informed me they would no longer stand behind the starter problems. well mox nix loas the thing i am wondering about is i tried to start it with the pull rope and it like to pull my fingers out at the sockets.is it possible the timing is to far advanced? the inner plate is lined up with the timing mark. I know with motor vehicles you use the timing mark to get it running and go from there to fine tune it.I dont know if i could turn the inner plate a little and get it to stop ripping my fingers out of joint by retarding the fire .[dont know which way to turn it either ]after the company i bought it from quit fixing the starter i ended up rebuilding it myself eight more times. now i found a starter for 35. i dont have any idea if it will hold up or not but you are the first one ive talked to that is knowledgeable and willing to listen to my questions and of course answer them . again thank you for you being you Dave

 

I learned real quick years ago when the 500 came out how to start them so they wouldn't rip your fingers off. Grab the handle with your left hand then cup your right hand under your left when pull starting. Saves your fingers and palms this way.Don't think the timing would be off that much as long as the plate and case marks are lined up.It's just the nature of this engine the way it starts. As far as starters I wouldn't waste my time rebuilding them as cheap as they are now. As far as the ebs working against the starter? Shouldn't be a factor unless the drive clutch one way needs to be replaced or cleaned or at least replace the fiber and metal washers and make sure the clutches are aligned. If the belt drifts over and touches the inner sheath,then the belt can place a load on the rear clutch and cause creeping and hard shifting.This was a common problem on the early ebs models and especially on 2001 and 2002 models seems like. You might look over this post on clutches.Clutch belt creeping - ATVConnection.com ATV Enthusiast Community Plus DB electric has good prices on starters and bendix.DB Electrical - Sportsman

 

Hi opt hope your having a good weekend . I bought this 500 new and from the start had problems with the starter . The first three times the place I bought it from replaced or rebuilt the starter.At that point they informed me polaris was done backing the starter. I even was out in colorado in the rockies and had it break down out on the trail[had 120 miles on it] I was able to take the starter drive out of it so I could pull start it.The question I have is. This was one or the first year of the ebs system and it seems like when it was about to start the ebs would work against it , if you try to pull start it, it like to pull your bones right out of the sockets could the timing be to advanced and if so which way would you turn the plate right now its on the timing mark,i have put brushes in it at least 10 times. Have you run accross this before? I thought maybe i could retard the timing a hair and it would quit trying to rip my fingers off. Would sure appreciate your input opt thanks.dave


























w

 

hi opt could i retard the timing? since it was new it seems to work against the ebs when starting. had to rebuild stater many times when you pull rope to start it, it rips the rope right out of your fingers.I dont know which way to turn the plate right now mark is lined up

 

sorry bout the repeats didnt see there was a page two

 

The issue is that you are starting to pull in the easier cycles and then the compression stroke hits and pulls the cord from your hand.

The best way to pull start is to pull the rope slow until the engine is in the compression stroke. Then let the rope back in and pull like you would normally do.
This will help you pull easier without the compression stroke ripping the rope from you hand.

just need to try the method a few times. and you will get the hang of it.