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-   -   2006 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI sputtering and battery icon flashing (https://atvconnection.com/forums/polaris/367562-2006-polaris-sportsman-500-efi-sputtering-battery-icon-flashing.html)

CrimsonTideJosh 04-14-2016 06:17 PM

2006 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI sputtering and battery icon flashing
 
I've got a 2006 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO EFI. It'll run fine for a few minutes, then it'll start sputtering when you hit the gas. If I turn it off and back on, it'll be ok for a few minutes, then it does it again. Also, when at a higher RPM and higher speed, the battery indicator flashes and then goes back off when I slow down. I just replaced the ECM. Which I was told the voltage regulator/rectifier was inside of that as well and it did NOT fix it. Still getting the battery light and sputtering. Any ideas?

old polaris tech 04-14-2016 06:47 PM

Check the battery connection,plus I'd load test the battery. If you replaced the pdm module and it shows that it's charging at least 14 volts back to the battery,that doesn't mean that the battery can accept this voltage if it has an open cell. The battery light flashing is telling you something is wrong.

CrimsonTideJosh 04-14-2016 07:04 PM

This might make me sound dumb, but how do load test it? And what should be 14 volts? I'm sorry, not too great at this. I really appreciate the help.

old polaris tech 04-14-2016 07:19 PM

When it's at an idle use a volt meter and check that the battery is showing between 14-14.5 volts. That means at least the new pdm is doing it's job,but if the battery is weak(open or shorted cell) it may not be able to store this voltage.The battery has to supply voltage for the ignition,efi system,lights,etc. Probably the reason why it's sputtering,etc. One simple way is to have the meter leads on the battery and have someone start it. If voltage drops below 10 volts,then the battery is weak. Best way is to use a load tester.
Plus here's a test using a fluke meter.

CrimsonTideJosh 04-14-2016 07:27 PM

Ok, did it. The battery when off and running at idle is at 12.3 volts. When you rev up the RPMs, it stays around the same.

old polaris tech 04-14-2016 07:31 PM


Originally Posted by CrimsonTideJosh (Post 3322248)
Ok, did it. The battery when off and running at idle is at 12.3 volts. When you rev up the RPMs, it stays around the same.

Then you either have a faulty new pdm module,connectors aren't hooked up snugly,battery connections may be loose or corroded, or can even be a ground problem. Again I'd recheck all connections.

CrimsonTideJosh 04-14-2016 07:38 PM

Could it be the TMAP/TBAP sensor? Is that the same thing or are they different. And where is located? Also, how do I check the ground? You've been really helpful and I greatly appreciate it.

old polaris tech 04-14-2016 08:04 PM

Nope,doesn't have anything to do with the tbap. It does in a sense if you're not able to get full 12 volts to all the systems. Since it's not charging,once voltage to components drop below 12 volts all systems suffer and start acting up. Again the flashing battery light is telling you something's up. You might benefit from a service manual that shows you different areas to check in the electronic trouble shooting guides.2006 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI Service Manual PDF Download

Rooky 04-15-2016 07:40 AM


Originally Posted by old polaris tech (Post 3322254)
Nope,doesn't have anything to do with the tbap. It does in a sense if you're not able to get full 12 volts to all the systems. Since it's not charging,once voltage to components drop below 12 volts all systems suffer and start acting up. Again the flashing battery light is telling you something's up. You might benefit from a service manual that shows you different areas to check in the electronic trouble shooting guides.2006 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI Service Manual PDF Download

Mine was doing the same thing and a new stator fixed it.

old polaris tech 04-15-2016 08:27 AM


Originally Posted by Rooky (Post 3322306)
Mine was doing the same thing and a new stator fixed it.

Good point.. Entirely possible a faulty charge coil in the stator could be the problem since the pdm has been replaced,but that's where the manual comes in to play. Cheaper to spend the 5 bucks for the manual,go through the stator tests and resistance specs to be sure before you throw good money on a new stator that may not solve the problem.That's why I keep pushing manuals rather than have people throw parts at machines.


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