Okay so tested the boot and getting 5k Ohms through it so I guess it looks like it's the coil. Going to try to figure out testing the "primary" and "secondary" ohms

 

when i test with multimeter I get continuity between the metal connector on the ignition coil that is - (white wire plugs in) and ground (brown wire plugs in).

And when i remove black cable from red spark plug boot and test there (black) to where the white wire would connect, I get 6.7 ohms.

 

The broken brown wire has thrown me through a loop as going through the service manual I see that a poor ground could be the problem all along. I am going to properly solder and repair that brown broken wire and see if it sparks.

I'm not sure if its possible on my 2013 400 but I saw a youtube video where someone pulled there black ignition wire and that solved the spark as the quad was in "kill spark mode".

Also I was WRONG where the brown wire is broken. I believe it is somewhere here as the break is right before it goes into black plastic tubing with other wires down to the stator. Please see photos https://ibb.co/mSORMQ and https://ibb.co/eULZ85

 

Repair the broken ground wire first. Then check for spark. If you don't have spark,then pull the black wire from the cdi to isolate the cdi kill wire from the ignition switch and left control switch. On the ignition coil resistance you should have a small resistance valve on the coil tab to ground. If you're getting 6.7k ohms with the cap attached to the coil wire,sounds like the coil is ok.

 

Apologies for my naive questions but just to clarify:

1. By "Cap" do you mean the red spark plug boot with the resistor inside?
2. To pull the black wire from the CDI do I literally gently pull it free from the CDI box?

Thank you so much OPT, you've continued to be a massive help and give me confidence (and enjoyment) to try and fix this while I wait for the river to break and am able to get access to civilization.

 

Just repair the brown ground wire first. That may solve all your your problems.. If it doesn't then isolate the cdi black wire from the the connection it plugs into. When I say cap it's the plug cap,spark plug boot,etc. All mean the same thing. If you show 5k on the cap(plug boot) and 6.7k when you check the secondary resistance,that is inside the plug boot to the coil tab(where the wire from the cdi hooks to) then sounds like the ignition coil is ok.

 

Repaired brown wire by soldering and checked it for continuity but still no spark. Going to figure out how to isolate ignition wire now.

Update: cannot figure out how to isolate this thing OPT. Do I literally pull it out of the clip that attached to the CDI box?

 

If disconnecting the black wire at the cdi doesn't help on spark,I'd eliminate the stator and pick up coil with resistance checks as the manual suggests. You've eliminated the ignition coil already. If the stator checks out,then it's probably a cdi problem.No good tests for the cdi,that's why you eliminate the other items first.

 

Also, OPT when I recheck the coil my secondary test gets 6.8 ohms without the cap connected (end of black wire that connects to boot and white terminal on coil. With the red boot connected (5k resistor in the way now) I get 11.8. I think this is normal as you said but just wanted to confirm 6.7 was not when the boot is on.