Be careful on the throttle body. Don't lift the buttery fly valve by hand or you could end up damaging the tps spring. Just lightly spray with electrical contact cleaner IF it's dirty and wipe it out with a rag. The t-bap sensor can be removed and carefully wipe any dirt from the tip.Again if it was mine I'd go from front to back and change fluids,clean/replace the air filter and be sure to check compression and change plugs. The rear diff takes 80/90 hypoid. Plus check the u-joints and grease the u-joints on the prop shaft leading to the the front diff. Front diff takes Demand Drive Plus fluid. I hope the plastic roller cage in the diff is ok,but we'll leave that for another time... If it's been cranking and idling ok,I would think the fuel pressure and pump should be ok. If you want to check you need an adapter that will fit and pressure should hold about 39 psi give or take a pound or so. ALL this info is in that cheap manual..

 

Actually when I first fired it up before I drove it down the road, it was idling pretty good, a little low but it wasn't sputtering or stalling, now it won't idle. When I fire it up, it is idling really low and sputtering then dies. But will fire right back up and will do the same thing. Also that isnt the right pigtail for my tps that you posted. Mine is a 2005 it has the triangle plug. I searched their website and put in exact year info but they don't show tps pigtail. So gotta do some searching to find the tps one.

 

This is the one I have

 

Oops,then this is the one piece tps model. It has to be installed and adjusted to a base .528 vdc then tighten the holding screw. Final adjustment to .710 vdc is made by the idle adjuster screw on the throttle body which on most models is D shaped. To be able to do this,you need the tps harness adapter,9 volt battery and regulator. Looks like you're going to need a new completed tps sensor and best to have the dealer install it unless you can get this to work as you mentioned.Plus the po may have screwed with the original settings on the tps. Still even if you do have to have the dealer work on it you still came out good on the price.

 

Cleaned throttle body, while I had that out I noticed the wires where they connect to the actual tps sensor all had the casing worn off and all three wires were exposed and still intact but not 100%. Also removed the tbap sensor and it was melted on the tip?? So im waiting to hear back from a guy that is parting out an 800 local to see if he has the parts i need. I did a compression check and both sides were around 175.
once the wife goes to bed I'm draining the tank(again) and changing plugs.

 

[QUOTE=lph008;3366509]Cleaned throttle body, while I had that out I noticed the wires where they connect to the actual tps sensor all had the casing worn off and all three wires were exposed and still intact but not 100%. Also removed the tbap sensor and it was melted on the tip?? So im waiting to hear back from a guy that is parting out an 800 local to see if he has the parts i need. I did a compression check and both sides were around 175.
once the wife goes to bed I'm draining the tank(again) and changing plugs.[/QUOTE

drained the gas, replaced plugs, left side plug was dry and charcoal black and the right side was wet and grey.
changed fluids in front Nd rear diff. Greased u-joints, and siphoned some coolant out of the overflow tank.

ok so when I put the plug wires back on, I fired it up just to see of maybe the gas and/or plugs had something to do with it, I noticed the left plug boot where the wire goes into the boot was arching on the head....so I pulled some slack in the wire so it wasn't resting on the head. Stopped arching Nd is now idling at about 1080-1090. Also in neutral I reved it up and the rpms hit over 6000. Before I couldn't get over 4400 rpms in neutral or driving.. will take it for a ride tomorrow to see if it goes over 30-35 mph. Are there plug wires that cross reference with the polaris wires? Also need header pipe to muffler exhaust donut, ill do some research and try to find napa donut part number

 

Odd ball plug boot only sold individually with the wire and coil cap. If the boot has a slit,open it up and use some silicone and electrical tape. Or you might try to match it up at an auto supply. Sounds like you've been able to piece it back together. Napa,Autozone,should have an exhaust donut that might fit. Just take the old one and match the diameter. New exhaust springs would probably help also.https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/EXT31360 Good luck with this.

 

Ya I didn't see any damage at all on the plug wire or the boot. It was actually coming out from inside the boot right where the wire goes into it. No burn marks or anything, I had used some dielectric grease also. It was pinched under the tank from when I put the tank back on, I got some extra slack after. Ordered tbap last night, calling couple dealers for the hell of it today to see of they stock tps.. worth a try i guess, ill also get a estimate to calibrate new tps when I get it.

 

Ok so I found a tps sensor at dealer 40 min away, I called the 3 polaris dealers that are within an hour from me and none of them can get me in to adjist the tps sensor. The earliest I could get in was July 21st!!! So my question is, is this something that needs to be done at only a polaris dealer or can other dealers do this? Also that $40 plug In tool you can buy, is that all I would need to set it? I put the new one in and adjusted it all the way in the one direction, that's whete my rpms were the highest while idling but the rpms are still only around 1050-1070. Also it still runs terrible, sputters when idling and sounds like its cutting out and missing up to 1/4 throttle. Revs out over 6000 rpm now but still only goes 35+/- for top speed

 

You can't just throw a tps in or even manually adjust one without the test harness accurately. HAVE to have the tps harness,the regulator and a 9 volts battery to correctly set the base vdc of .528. You can damage the spring on a tps also,but in your case really doesn't matter as it needs replacing.The sputtering ,popping back can still be the t-bap or wiring also.If the tbap tip was melted,then I'd think a new/used sensor on this and from experience get the otb t-bap harness repair kit. Sounds like you have a couple different problems at the same time,but still considering the good price you got the machine for and its over all condition,a few bucks isn't going to hurt and expected on a machine that had problems to begin with.https://www.manualslib.com/manual/83....html?page=130