You don't need them. Start one end of the circlip in the piston groove open end towards the top of the groove ,hold with your thumb and carefully use a small pick to work the rest of the clip into the groove without bending or distorting it. Circlip open end need to be facing kind of close to being up or down, not sideways or the clip can fly out because of piston force. Once the clip is installed,you can push one end and move the open end around if need be. You can slide the cylinder down,hold the rings tight against their stops and slide the piston down carefully over the rings. Sometimes a pair of extra hands can help.Then you can seat the cylinder. Don't forget to have the base gasket on first..

 

I will finally be getting my cylinder back in a couple days and I need a recommendation for a ring compressor sleeve. He told me my bore size is 2.972". If I should get a tapered from Wiesco do I buy a 75.5mm? I know it's just short of that but would it work? If I should get an adjustable what would your recommendation be? Thank you

 

Should have had the piston in hand before it was bored so the correct clearance wasn't too large or too small. Anyway 2.972 equals 75.4888 so the obvious piston is 75.5 mm.Clearance shouldn't be smaller than .015 or larger than.003. Ring end gap .012-.022. Wiseco is the best piston replacement.
Never had to use a ring compressor on these or any two stroke as the ring stop pins on the piston make it easy to compress the rings with your fingers and slide the cylinder on. Once you do it it's no big deal.

 

He actually didn't bore the cylinder yet, the piston will be at his shop tomorrow and then he will do the cylinder. I will try it without the compressor and see how it goes. Hopefully I'll be able to have it all put together by the weekend.

In the service manual it says to mix my gas and oil for the first tank, what ratio do I use? Do I need to unhook anything with the oil injection?

 

50/1 ratio in the gas tank along with using the oil pump.Make sure you open the 10mm bleed screw on top of the oil pump to remove any air from the lines.When you first crank it up hold the pump arm all the way up so it can get oil quickly to the carb. When it does you should notice a little extra oil smoke. After the first tank of premix,use straight 87 from then on.

 

Finally brought it home last night, took a little longer then I thought. I guess I'm going to start putting it together tonight or tomorrow. Just to clarify I want to fill the oil tank with oil and also fill the regular gas tank with premix? I'll make sure I open the bleed screw also. When I put everything back together should I put a small coat of oil over the piston and on the cylinder wall? Do I need to use a special oil or grease for the bearing for the connecting rod or can I use the injector oil?

 

Yes to everything except you don't need any special lube on the rod and crank bearings.Just two stroke oil is fine.

 

The oil pump is down under the carb/air box area correct? I haven't checked the head size of the bolt coming out from it but it also has a slot for a flat head screwdriver, I'm assuming this is the bleed screw.

i pretty much have the top end back together, I just need to find a torque wrench I can fit in there. When I put the new exhaust on does it matter which way the manifold gasket goes? Also when fitting the pieces together do I need to force them in place or let the springs do the work? After I have all the cylinder and head nuts torqued and exhaust back on I can start break in, just need to find a good procedure.

I did rebuild the carb as well but never had the chance to tune it bc of the rebuild. It's adjusted to the factory settings, should I keep it here during break in or attempt to fine tune it during the break in?

 

Bleed screw has a slot head but it's a hex head also. 8 or 10 mm that you can use a wrench on if a screw driver doesn't work.Manual says to bleed the pump as it's running but I did it before I cranked one up.Just open and let oil flow and if any air is in the line bubbles will show up also. Only takes a minute or so then you can close it. Springs hold the exhaust pipe in place. A body dent puller is what I used. Makes an easy job of spring pulling. Replace any worn/stretched springs.After everything is together,head torqued,tank is premixed,crank it up and lift the pump arm while at an idle. Shouldn't take long for the oil to reach the carb. Let it run until it's warm and kill it. Let it cool down and fire it up again and then take it for a ride. No wide open throttle,just vary throttle while it's breaking in. Carb basic setting on air screw is 1.5-2 turns out. Adjust idle screw for a smooth even idle.