Polaris Discussions about Polaris ATVs.

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  #21  
Old 10-02-2017, 10:47 PM
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Thank you. I missed that. I will order that too. From my picture, I thought something was missing. Thank you so much for your help.
 
  #22  
Old 12-11-2017, 10:58 AM
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Ok, I'm back. I finally have the bike running, however it acts like its stuck in choke. It idled super high and has no power. Throttle just puts a load on the motor. I'm stuck. I have replaced both brake lever assemblies, so I'm sure I'm missing something. The new right hand brake/throttle handle came with a different electrical connector so I cut and replaced it with what was on the bike. Did I solder them in reverse? Take a look at this picture.

 
  #23  
Old 12-11-2017, 11:24 AM
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As long as the black spliced wire(ground) is tied into the other blacks and the gray leads to the cdi module you have it hooked up right. On the loading up problem have you cleaned the carb,made sure all passage ways are clean,checked the compression,plus checked into the clutches and belt? Any of these could be the problem. Compression minimum should be 115 psi according to the manual.
 
  #24  
Old 12-11-2017, 11:51 AM
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Carb is brand new, and I have it adjusted to where it idles and not die. It just seems like it's stuck in choke. I'm pretty much over this bike right now.
 
  #25  
Old 12-11-2017, 01:32 PM
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If you bought one of those cheap Chinese knock off carbs I'd go through it if you haven't already. Dirt or a little piece of machining debris could be between the needle and the seat,or jetting may be different than what the oem Mikuni carb is.Some have found dirt, machine filings on these carbs when they opened them up. My two cents worth is to rebuild the oem carb as it's a better quality carb to begin with.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shindy-Carb...NYXD5b&vxp=mtr
 
  #26  
Old 12-29-2017, 07:21 AM
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I am back at it. Gave the bike to my son for Christmas, with the intend of rebuilding it with him. he is super excited. I have all of the pictures of the work done so far on my phone and I will post them when I get home.

Took the bike to a buddy to have him look over it as he is familiar with quads and has more time to look at it. Come to the realization that the motor needs new rings and the transmission is toast. Knowing this, I bought another bike with a bad motor, but a good trans. This bike is in overall better shape, so it will be the new driver with the yellow one as a parts bike.

So far I have taken all of the plastics off the yellow bike, removed motor and transmission and have tore down the trans and engine enough to where i can split the two in half. My question is this, Do I need to remove the oil pump drive gear? I am going through the service manual step-by-step and I am at a stopping point. I have removed all of the bolts holding the two cases together, but if I need to remove the oil pump drive gear, then I will need the tool to do so. Any suggestions?
 
  #27  
Old 12-29-2017, 07:47 AM
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Just had the same thing from another poster a week or so ago. The oil pump drive gear puller 0450699 is a tool that's hard to find. He ended up using pliers to remove the plastic gear from the crank shaft. Think that's what I did years also ago on one but couldn't remember at the time.
 
  #28  
Old 12-29-2017, 07:52 AM
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Do I need to remove it to separate the 2 cases?
 
  #29  
Old 12-29-2017, 08:03 AM
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Only if you plan on replacing the crank shafts and bearings. Always replace the crank seals though. The gears in the transmission you can swap out. http://www.49ccscoot.com/manuals/200..._Youth_ATV.pdf
 
  #30  
Old 12-29-2017, 08:09 AM
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Ok. I don't plan on replacing the crank or bearings on this motor. I am assuming that I need to remove the oil drive to replace the crank seals? I'm not sure what is wrong with the transmission. I think something broke on the chain side. The chain sprocket just spins freely without engaging the other side.
 



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