Had the weirdest thing happen the other day. I was bleeding the brakes after I put on the new master cylinder. At first it wouldn't bleed and eventually I found the rear pedal system was also bypassing, so I soldered the J bolt shut and then it was fine. Didn't even think about that pedal system being paralleled from the front brake lever.

 

A lot of people overlook the rear caliper itself. The seal kits come with the piston seals plus two small o-rings that seal the caliper halves.If they start seeping air it drives people nuts trying to bleed the main system along with the foot brake.

 

Yep, it sure got me. Kinda odd how both systems are tied together. I don't see the point of having just a back brake, so it is blocked off now and the hand brake is working fine. Some of the brake pads are shot so I may need to replace those as well.

 

That can have a lot to do with getting the braking system right also.

 

Yeah. Initially I retracted the pistons all the way and obviously that didn't help but pads will be on my future shopping list.

 

The back brake controlled by the foot pedal is an emergency brake, in case the main brake system fails. I would rather have it working than disabled.

 

I may too except all the rear does is slide tires. Better than nothing but last time my brakes failed I was fine to make it home.

 

OEM parts to the rescue!

 

So.. strapped on the cover and whola! It rubs. Bad. Worse than the old one, except this one you can't push down and get it to go away. However, when I put it on, I noticed it was shrunk kind of inward, and I had to pull the edges open enough to slide a screw in. Does that mean something wasn't formed right? It is screwed on, so should I leave it for a night and see if it will re-form?

 

Check your motor mounts especially the front one for separation. Plus if the existing backing plate is warped,it to can cause the cover to touch. Plus you may have to adjust the clutch backing cover bracket to compensate.Item #21