Plate is nasty looking.Too tight or too loose on the hub nut can destroy them. Face of the hub seal sleeve and part of the inner pole are worn,but try a new plate and see if that solves the problem. When ready to assemble,preload the bearings to 15 foot pounds while turning the hub slowly,back off the hub nut and torque to 10 foot pounds. If you have to tighten the nut or loosen it a tad to align the cotter pin holes that should be ok. If you still have engagement problems on that side,the hub seal sleeve may needed to be replaced.

 

Ok. Thanks for the advice! I am hopeful the plate fixes it, but i think itll be a good bike so maybe worth another part or 2. Is it true when replacing the hub seal you will probably damge the coil?

 

Most cases you end up cracking the coil removing the the old seal sleeve as it's usually siliconed on also. At least I couldn't ever save many of them.

 

So I will start by replacing the plate. First I probably should check the the other side, it is probably on its way out as well. Then if that doesnt fix it, i may look into a new seal.

 

Always replace both plates at the same time along with any other worn parts. No sense in having to go back into them later on.

 

Sounds good. I will do the plates and see how that turns out. I bet the right side is pretty bad as well. Now I am curious!

 

The cheap service manual can solve a lot of that curiosity..

 

 

 

I used oem plates at the shop,never tried an aftermarket plate but I'm pretty sure they'd be ok.40:1 is fine with a good synthetic premix oil. If someone burnt an engine using 50:1,either the engine was ready to go or they were using cheap oil. The oil pumps themselves were set at the factory to mix at a 50:1 ratio.