It is thinner than car oil,possibly a little thicker than atf. So I guess you'd say fluid same as what the label says.. Plus look at the label. Has extreme pressure additives to get into cracks, crevices,plus anti foaming agents,etc. Any other good gear case fluid should say the same.

 

Ok. Saw several guys running 5/20 but if that isn't compatible i will find something else.

 

You should find the right lube. It's not hard to find at most auto parts stores.

 

Ok, will do some looking.

 

I have measured the clearances on the crank, and the side to side clearance is much below the limit. You can't feel any slack in the bearing up and down, and the measurement also shows that it is tight. Almost $200 total for a rod kit and labor, and the shop that was gonna do it doesn't have any specs for truing it after they pull it apart. I will probably be getting the master rebuild kit, bore, weisco set, and maybe an oil block off kit from rcr.

 

That's the critical part with the dial indicator and stand after a rod is installed.If a shop can't do that,don't let them touch a crank.

 

Right. And since it measures good I feel fine leaving it alone as opposed to maybe making a good thing worse.

 

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

Agreed

 

I made an exception to the "ain't broke don't fix it" rule. I have read and now witnessed how hard it would be to get to the starter if it ever failed. So i decided to pull it apart and at least clean it up while it is in easy access. I pulled it apart and it was nasty. Thick mix of old grease, oil, and probably some water coated the large part of the guts. I got everything cleaned and it works much better and sounds nice too.