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Loosing power when fan comes on polaris 400 !HELP!

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Loosing power when fan comes on polaris 400 !HELP!

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  #11  
Old 03-10-2018, 09:31 PM
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We won't steer you wrong around here at the forums,at least not intentionally..
 
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  #12  
Old 03-11-2018, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Neil915 View Post


Right on. I should've got on here a long time ago. Ask the experts haha. I know where to go now!
ok back to the drawing board. Put brand new exide high performance battery on and no dice. Cutting out and can't give it any throttle before the fan even comes on. At and idle battery was reading 12.39 and as I gave it as much throttle as I could it only went up to about 12.45. Also probably don't make a difference but temperature light stays on all the time. Probably bad sensor or something don't think that'd make it do what it's doing.
 
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  #13  
Old 03-11-2018, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech View Post
We won't steer you wrong around here at the forums,at least not intentionally..
ok back to the drawing board. Put brand new exide high performance battery on and no dice. Cutting out and can't give it any throttle before the fan even comes on. At and idle battery was reading 12.39 and as I gave it as much throttle as I could it only went up to about 12.45. Also probably don't make a difference but temperature light stays on all the time. Probably bad sensor or something don't think that'd make it do what it's doing. I can unhook the battery and it runs great of course until the fan comes on
 
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  #14  
Old 03-11-2018, 04:38 PM
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More than likely the regulator is bad. To eliminate it being stator related check the resistance between each yellow wire. Should be some small resistance with no yellow shorting to ground. If this checks out get a new regulator as you're just showing battery voltage. If fan isn't kicking on the sensor at the top of the radiator(#12) could be shorted out. Use needle nose pliers to jumps the leads to see if the fan works. If it does,replace the sensor. You can probably match this up at any auto supply.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rectifier-R...BTmc~7&vxp=mtr I'd still bleed the head again to make sure there isn't any trapped air. If the fan comes on,then the sensor is working,but the load on the battery is probably what causing some of the problem. Has to be charging around 14 volts for the battery to keep up.
 
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  #15  
Old 03-11-2018, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech View Post
More than likely the regulator is bad. To eliminate it being stator related check the resistance between each yellow wire. Should be some small resistance with no yellow shorting to ground. If this checks out get a new regulator as you're just showing battery voltage. If fan isn't kicking on the sensor at the top of the radiator(#12) could be shorted out. Use needle nose pliers to jumps the leads to see if the fan works. If it does,replace the sensor. You can probably match this up at any auto supply.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rectifier-R...BTmc~7&vxp=mtr I'd still bleed the head again to make sure there isn't any trapped air. If the fan comes on,then the sensor is working,but the load on the battery is probably what causing some of the problem. Has to be charging around 14 volts for the battery to keep up.
Ok gonna do some testing and see what I can come up with. Did check that sensor and it's ok and fan does work. Was wondering about the sensor on the head. Want to figure out why the light is on always.
 
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  #16  
Old 03-11-2018, 05:27 PM
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Check resistance on the sensor when cold and when engine is hot. Possible the sensor has shorted triggering the hot light especially if it's on when the engine is cold.
 
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  #17  
Old 03-11-2018, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech View Post
Check resistance on the sensor when cold and when engine is hot. Possible the sensor has shorted triggering the hot light especially if it's on when the engine is cold.
stator test good but having trouble testing rectifier. Testing the two yellow wires coming out of rectifier and not showing anything on multimeter. I have 2 parts quads and want to test them all and hopefully one will check out good and will solve my problem.
 
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  #18  
Old 03-12-2018, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech View Post
Check resistance on the sensor when cold and when engine is hot. Possible the sensor has shorted triggering the hot light especially if it's on when the engine is cold.
also what is the other box with the 4 wires? Tried swapping out rectifier with another used one I had before buying new and still doing same thing.
 
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  #19  
Old 03-13-2018, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Neil915 View Post


also what is the other box with the 4 wires? Tried swapping out rectifier with another used one I had before buying new and still doing same thing.
That's the reverse limiter module I mentioned in my first post to you! Pull its black wire from the terminal board to defeat this module. It can cause limiting problems if it faults. You don't need this module as it's more of a nuisance than a safety device. You can then have full power in reverse without having to push the over ride button.In a lot of cases forum members have solved problems especially with limiting in forward range also by eliminating this module. This is just another step in the process of elimination.
 
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  #20  
Old 03-13-2018, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech View Post
That's the reverse limiter module I mentioned in my first post to you! Pull its black wire from the terminal board to defeat this module. It can cause limiting problems if it faults. You don't need this module as it's more of a nuisance than a safety device. You can then have full power in reverse without having to push the over ride button.In a lot of cases forum members have solved problems especially with limiting in forward range also by eliminating this module. This is just another step in the process of elimination.
Ohhhhhhh. I see now. When you had first mentioned that I thought you meant something else and it was just a single black wire. I will do that first thing. Thank you again
 
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