1994 400l broken piston skirt, advice needed
#1
1994 400l broken piston skirt, advice needed
Hi everyone!
I bought a 1994 400l 4x4 recently that wouldn't idle. Supposedly a carb problem. WRONG
To make a long story short after tinkering with it I found that I couldn't richen the fuel mixture regardless of the carb settings ect. I removed the reed cage and found that the piston skirt is broken off.
My question is this: Do I need to also rebuild the bottom end because of the piston failure? My experience with rebuilding 4 stroke engines tells me I should, but I figured I'd ask and see if the rule of thumb with 2 stroke engines is any different. I would like to keep the cost down but not at the risk of having to repair it again anytime soon.
Any advice or insight you are willing to share regarding this type of repair is greatly appreciated.
I bought a 1994 400l 4x4 recently that wouldn't idle. Supposedly a carb problem. WRONG
To make a long story short after tinkering with it I found that I couldn't richen the fuel mixture regardless of the carb settings ect. I removed the reed cage and found that the piston skirt is broken off.
My question is this: Do I need to also rebuild the bottom end because of the piston failure? My experience with rebuilding 4 stroke engines tells me I should, but I figured I'd ask and see if the rule of thumb with 2 stroke engines is any different. I would like to keep the cost down but not at the risk of having to repair it again anytime soon.
Any advice or insight you are willing to share regarding this type of repair is greatly appreciated.
#2
Oem cast pistons would shatter. Best to get an over size Wiseco forged piston that would clean up the cylinder bore. Two strokes are far more prone for bottom end damage than a lot of 4 strokes that are constantly bathed in oil. Most of these if this happens you can save the lower end. Hard to get all the metal pieces from the lower and upper rod bearing along with the three crank bearings on the 2 strokes. I wouldn't guarantee just doing a top end at the shop for the simple reason if the lower rod bearing or crank bearings failed,pieces could be flung back up unto the cylinder and destroy rings,pistons and that new bore you had done. The call is yours on this as some have flushed out the bottom ends,checked for any up and down play on the rod(no play is allowed) plus checked for rough feeling crank bearings as they turned the rod around. If you do install a new rod kit and crank bearings,crank seals along with the water pump seals and bearing have to be changed also. Complete bearing,seal,gasket kits are out there on ebay and amazon also.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)