Help Dead Sportsman 500 Carb
#1
Help Dead Sportsman 500 Carb
Hi guys first time post here. I have had many dirt bikes and quads currently riding a Brute Force 650 and I bought a 2011 Sportsman 500 carb from my neighbor to leave where I hunt, he used to it to plow a bunch of driveways last year and then parked it outside a month later had a dead battery and couldn't start it, he charged the battery and even tried a new one. None of the lights etc. come on. I bought it for $1,500 with the plow.
I am trying to figure out what's going on. The battery is charged and I have power in and out of the circuit breaker under the seat, and at the fuse block in the front. I have checked for power at the rectifier and have power in and out, I have checked power at the switch and have power as well. I am able to jump the starter solenoid and the motor turns over, but no spark. I changed the key ignition only had 1 key and most recently the CDI box because we figured with power coming to it and but no spark maybe that was the cause. No good. I am kind of stumped here and haven't seen anything online resembling this issue. I don't want to keep replacing parts to figure it out. It's weird it seems like its dead. No head lights, no tails, no gauge lights, no clicks or noises. Anyone with some knowledge or suggestions? Trying to get it running for next weekend so a friend can come trail riding with us.
I am trying to figure out what's going on. The battery is charged and I have power in and out of the circuit breaker under the seat, and at the fuse block in the front. I have checked for power at the rectifier and have power in and out, I have checked power at the switch and have power as well. I am able to jump the starter solenoid and the motor turns over, but no spark. I changed the key ignition only had 1 key and most recently the CDI box because we figured with power coming to it and but no spark maybe that was the cause. No good. I am kind of stumped here and haven't seen anything online resembling this issue. I don't want to keep replacing parts to figure it out. It's weird it seems like its dead. No head lights, no tails, no gauge lights, no clicks or noises. Anyone with some knowledge or suggestions? Trying to get it running for next weekend so a friend can come trail riding with us.
#2
#3
Would a bad fusable link still allow the starter to work by jumping the solenoid? I also notice on of the pins in connector at the kill switch has corrosion and broke off. Is there a way to bypass the kill switch to see if that is the problem? I will order a new connector or switch if I can test and it comes up bad.
#4
Would a bad fusable link still allow the starter to work by jumping the solenoid? I also notice on of the pins in connector at the kill switch has corrosion and broke off. Is there a way to bypass the kill switch to see if that is the problem? I will order a new connector or switch if I can test and it comes up bad.
#5
Can you see if you can find the sticker that shows the VIN number and production date? In the wiring diagram there is a "built on or after"(production date) to 2 different wiring diagrams. I dont know what the difference is, but Id like to look at the correct one to try and help. I think I have it figured out. Just want to verify.
If you cant find it and can find your VIN on the frame, you could PM me that info and I'll contact my dealership buddy and have him run it for me and get the prod date that way.
Just an FYI, when the vin gets ran at a dealer, it will show the name, phone number, address, etc of the original buyer so there is some info that can be seen. Nothing that can be used in a bad way, but info none the less. If you are worried about send me the info because of that I understand. WE'll work around it if so. It might make it easier to figure it out though. Totally your call on the vin.
If you cant find it and can find your VIN on the frame, you could PM me that info and I'll contact my dealership buddy and have him run it for me and get the prod date that way.
Just an FYI, when the vin gets ran at a dealer, it will show the name, phone number, address, etc of the original buyer so there is some info that can be seen. Nothing that can be used in a bad way, but info none the less. If you are worried about send me the info because of that I understand. WE'll work around it if so. It might make it easier to figure it out though. Totally your call on the vin.
#7
I think you need to jumper the red/black to the red/white. The part I circled in green is just something that I find strange. I'm not positive that connection is made when in the "On" position. I don't like they drew it, but, on a lot of machines the red/white always has 12 volts when key is on so I think I'm correct.
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#8
I tried it still no spark or lights. Still can’t figure this thing out. It looks like power to the gauge in pin 2 but still don’t have power on the gauge.
could a fried gauge cause all this? The wiring harness has a lot of splices and added wires. I am not sure if I should try a used harness if it is in better condition. I’m just stumped
could a fried gauge cause all this? The wiring harness has a lot of splices and added wires. I am not sure if I should try a used harness if it is in better condition. I’m just stumped
#10
Thanks guys after much frustration I finally brought the machine to a local garage they had it running in an hour. The main power to the switch was getting full power. All fixed now, now I am on to the brakes, aarm bushings, and wheel bearings. Last step will be the get the plastic back on. Does anyone know an efficient way to get all the mounting hardware for the body plastic, I would venture to say I am missing most if not all the screws and bolt. I would rather buy them in bulk or at Home Depot if there is a place I can find bolt sizes that would be awesome. Thanks guys!