Hard Starting Trailblazer
 

to 'ncscrambler'
thanx... i didnt know it looked like i was getting excited...
Maybe it's because i'm processing to much information.
but thanx to all for the assist..

Lets start at the beginning... even though i'm reading and learning more about two strokes then i ever thought i would... i have some things i need to understand completely
First lets deal with the engine. Within that you have 1. the combustion chamber, above the pistion and 2. the mixing below it in the crank. Now the only air leak for the combustion is the head, plug and rings which gives us the psi reading. But below it, where all the air, oil and fuel mix i get a little confused. Immediately behind the flywheel and stator plate on my engine i have two holes that look like (and physically would have to.. although i havent split the crankcase into the shaft and connection rod chamber) they go into the connection rod chamber. Now that i understand how to post pics, there are two pics here at this location that are made for this(http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/rawiggins2002). the one 'flywheel side of crank' shows what i'm talking about. theres is a hole on the bottom underneath the bottom coil and another hole just to the lower right of the rightmost coil. these both seem to go to inside the crank... - because when i first started it and discovered i was flooding it alot, i pulled the recoil cover off and the excess oil run out. Anyway, back to the hole in the crankcase wall underneath the stator - from there it's an open air passageway to the outside thru the recoil and out the small water run-off on the bottom of the recoil cover. The one hole on the bottom was designed for flooding i believe and theres even a drain plug there to remove the contents. In any event that means the air is cirulculateing here... So whats up with all this air leaking stuff... i mean thru one of these holes, i can go thru the case to the base of the cylinder RIGHT? So who cares about the seal between the cylinder and the base..? The fact that its a new gasket and it's torqued to specs should be enough. So this air leaking thing confuses me a bit

As for the carb... i'm going to start investigating and dismantling the carb beyond the bowl and make sure it's clean and i like the suggestion about the choke... i think before this machine went down, the choke was'nt truly effective. Anyway... my question is... how does the choke cable separate from the body? note the pic 'top of carb' I'm also assuming the screw under the hose is the pilot screw and the crown shaped one in the center of the pic is the idle speed or 'airscrew' as 2many discribes it. Now say... the adjustment on the top of the slide, the choke the pilot and the airscrew, have all been jacked... I'm going to start with what '2many' suggested on the airscrew. but what about the rest? and btw to '2many' there are no other mods... i'm just trying to restore it....
damn... maybe this is enough for now...
but it would be a good start for me to understand how to diagnose things better...

thanx

Hard Starting Trailblazer
 

Dang.... I forgot to mention about the 'pop' that 'NCscrambler' asked about. That was just my description about the initial start...... not a really a out of sequence misfire or anything......

also... this is where you can find the two pics mentioned beforehand
Pics of Side of crank and carb

thanx

Hard Starting Trailblazer
 

First things first. Here is a part diagram of your carb. The choke should just screw out of the carb body, on the link, items 6-8 are your choke assy, less the cable. Item 13 is your pilot jet. Item 11 is your air screw. Item 18 is the main jet. Item 10 is your idle screw. Item 4 is the jet needle. Item 30 is the clip that can be moved on the jet needle. The plug in the bottom is for the recoil housing in case of water entry, so you are correct about that. The oil seals must be in very good condition. They are part #'s 17 and 26 on this page. Hope this helps.

Hard Starting Trailblazer
 

The airscrew and idle screw is different.The idle screw is the crown looking thing. The airscrew is the other one. You really dont mess with the idle screw untill everythins else runs right. The airscrew is what leans the mixture out. If everything is stock then the main jet would be a 135 main, a #40 pilot jet, airscrew set 1 1/2 turns out with needle clip in the center position. This is the stock setup. Also the choke setting can really mess things up if it is not seated all the way down with choke off.

Hard Starting Trailblazer
 

dang..... you guys are fast...
it takes me about an hour to make this input....
anyway.... to 'tomany' ...
i've got to look at that choke and analyze what your saying about the carb and
spend some time with it... but right now i'm interested in the holes in the side...
to NCscrambler...
i removed the stator and got about as close as i could
look at the pic 'inside right side of crank' i posted at (new pic)
... the black spot just below the crank is the bottom hole and i'm
sure yu can see the one on the right
note the seal is fine and is not leaking....
are you saying these holes shouldnt be there?
i've seen the exploded diagram you've linked to... but that doesnt really show this area...

thanx

Hard Starting Trailblazer
 

Hard Starting Trailblazer
 

Hard Starting Trailblazer
 

New developments
We replaced the head gasket due to signs of leakage and it started great 1 time then wouldnt start again so we took a compression test while it was still warm and were only getting 90 psi then waited an hour and got 95 then waited again and got a little higher but noticed that it would not hold the reading . So this weekend we are going to tear it down again and look for a seal leaking when it gets warm.we have replaced the seals already but I'm sure this is a tell tale sign of a seal leak which may have showed up more after correcting the head gasket leak.



Well after thinking about it for a while this sound like the gage is bleeding down
But there still has to be a problem causing the low compression. So that is what we will be looking for this weekend

Hard Starting Trailblazer
 

Try a little oil in the cylinder before you pull it for a comp check.It could be bad rings.If it has more comp with oil the rings are bad or your bore job was bad.

Hard Starting Trailblazer
 

Well I tried the oil in the cylinder
with the oil I have been getting 125 psi and only about 90psi without the oil
already ordered a new set of rings

I found a couple of places where the exhaust was leaking and a buddy of mine thinks that could have something to do
with the short life of the rings so theres another thing to work on

I hope this fixes it

Later