Hello, Wondering if someone can help me out.

97 Polaris 425 - 4x4 Magnum Electrical Issue

Have good new battery.....12.5 Volts Constant. Quad starts and runs fine but does not charge battery. Thinking Voltage Reg or Stator...
When you run quad for about an hour with lights on kills battery and makes quad overheat, no fan.

Does anyone know how I can check the Voltage Regulator (which wires to test from the pic below)
-Also there is a light brown wire with a spade terminal (going to nothing)coming off just below the rectifier (big lug on pic below just below white wire where rectifier bolts to aluminum) that is not connected to anything? I do not see another wire lying around that it should go to?

Also, when I opened the hedalamp shell to get to the wires the gray wire off the rectifier was not plugged in the 3 wire harness so thought I found the problem, but of course still not charging battery when tested.

I would love to test the Voltage Reg., and Stator if anyone can give me instruction? Like what readings are supposed to be without rectifier plugged in while quad is running (to test stator output)

I dont want to change them both if not needed.

 

Manual doesn't show regulator tests,but here's the complete stator test. What you're mainly interested in is the Yellow wires. Black/Red to Green OR Black/Red to Red (which ever color you have) should read 446 ohms. Exciter coil White/Red to White 97 ohms.
Yellow to Yellow/Red .37 ohms
Yellow to Yellow/Brown .17 ohms. Plus no Yellow should zero out to ground. Hope this helps. Most of the time it's usually a voltage regulator problem,but you can't rule out the stator until it's checked out. Here's a cheap place for regulators. http://www.psep.biz/store/polaris_at..._regulator.htm

 

Thanks OPT. I will try when I get home. Do you have any idea where the light brown wires are supposted to go just under the rectifier in my pic? One is unhooked and I was just wondering?

 

All solid browns are ground wires plus on some models you will have some wires that may not be connected from the harness. The harness is used for different optional equipment too,and unused wires are just at times left dangling,especially grounds. Also make sure the awd small brown and grey wires are connected while you're under the panel.

 

Thanks agin!. The thing that is bugging me on the new regulators is they have 5 wires on them for my model, but I only have 4 wires coming off my original. And the wire colors are different so what do you hook or not hook so nothing burns up? Look at my pic and the pic on the link you sent me for new rectifiers.

What it did exactly is after runnin for about an hour overheated spewing out the overflow bottle. So let it cool. battery was completely dead, pull started 1 pull, then kept overheating, so I stopped.
Now I re-charged battery holds at 12.5 volts forever, but while running and reved up no higher voltage being put to battery.

 

Shows to have a change on the regulator part number on your model on the Polaris breakdown list. Shows to be a replacement kit on the LR 35 module which should address the wiring issue,BUT it's more expensive than the "generic" ones I gave you a link to earlier.If it's a regulator problem you may well be better off going with this one. #19. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Plus the fan has to have a constant 12 volts to operate and when the battery drains down,this can cause it to overheat by not allowing the fan to cycle properly. Same thing on the awd,has to have a constant 12 volt supply for it to work! Should be charging between 14 to 14.5 volts back to the battery if everything is right while above an idle.!! Plus another thing if this has been going on a while make sure the battery level is good (distilled water only if needed) Plus wouldn't hurt to charge the battery and have it load tested. Weak or no charging can sap the life out of a good battery in a short period of time.

 

Good idea on the battery load test.

It does not move off 12.5 volts at all while reving the motor. So have to get that corrected first.

 

Plus the module above the cdi with the 4 wires is the reverse limiter if you are thinking that is the regulator.Autozone,O'reilly's almost every where now has a load tester,but you still should have been charging at least 14 volts even if the battery is faulty! Load testing just tells whether the battery is capable of accepting the charge from the regulator and doesn't have a dead cell from being drained down constantly. This suggestion was just to have the battery checked out as you could have two problems instead of just one when(or if) you replace the regulator..

 

I agree on the battery load test and maybe two issues.

Man I thought that was the voltage regulator? You are right it is not!! Do you know where the regulator is on a magnum?

 

Down further close to the radiator,PLUS now you're looking at the right module check that all wires are connected! Some regulators have a bad habit of wires coming loose especially the Red one from vibration! Hope this is all that's wrong!!! Look at the last link I posted as to it's location...