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Rpms reading 0

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Old 09-11-2017, 05:25 PM
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Default Rpms reading 0

Has anyone ever had the rpms read 0 when idling but go up from 0 when reving? 2005 sportsman carbureted
 
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by lph008
Has anyone ever had the rpms read 0 when idling but go up from 0 when reving? 2005 sportsman carbureted
battery voltage is at 12.4 engine off, engine idling it is around 12.7 but slowly goes up, reving it the voltage reaches 15.5 then goes down to 14.3+/-
I've read other posts but all of them sat the rpms read 0 whether idling or reving the motor. When I ride it and hold it wide open I can get to 50mph and the rpms are just over 6000rpm. Seems to run just fine but I want to be sure there isn't a regulator/rectifier issue. I'd also like to know what the rpms are at when idling
 
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Old 09-12-2017, 01:21 AM
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12.4 volts is 75% charged. Should be charging more than 12.7 volts at an idle plus 15.5 volts is getting over the max. Fully charge the battery and load test it.If it passes a load test,could be another ecm is on the way out. Normal idle should be around 1050-1080 rpms or so.
 
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Old 09-12-2017, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
12.4 volts is 75% charged. Should be charging more than 12.7 volts at an idle plus 15.5 volts is getting over the max. Fully charge the battery and load test it.If it passes a load test,could be another ecm is on the way out. Normal idle should be around 1050-1080 rpms or so.
charged battery overnight and charger said it was full charge, I'm only getting 12.4 at idle and when It is idling with the battery charger srill connected, the battery charger drops to 75% so maybe battery?
 
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Old 09-12-2017, 07:57 AM
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Just charge it up and remove the charger. Then just do this. "Your local automotive shop is more than able to load test your battery for you. But it's quite easy to do at home. All you need is a digital voltmeter. For any load test to be accurate, the battery must be fully charged. Let's use a motorcycle battery for an example. Remove the seat and expose the battery in your bike so that you have access to the terminals. Do not disconnect the battery because you will attempt to start the bike. Hold the prongs of your voltmeter to the correct terminals on the battery. Now push the starter button and watch what the voltage drops to. It doesn't matter if the bike starts or not, what you're looking for is a voltage reading.
A healthy 12 volt motorcycle battery should maintain a range from 9.5 - 10.5 volts under the load for a good 30 seconds straight. If the battery begins to hold and then steadily drops in voltage, there is a problem. If the voltage instantly drops to 0 volts, that is also a problem. We call this the open cell. On a new battery, this can be a result of manufacturing flaws, but it also may be caused by sulfate crystal buildup. Under the intense heat of the load, one or more of the weld pieces connecting the cells is coming loose and separating. This will cut the current, and voltage will drop. When the battery cools off, the pieces will touch, barely giving a complete connection. This gives you a false voltage reading. Batteries with open cells may read fully charged in idle, but they fail under a load test every time. Once a battery reaches this point, there is no going back. The best thing to do is recycle the thing." Still think the ecm is on the way out even if the battery passes a load test as 15.5 charging volts can eventually boil the life out of a battery.
 
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:11 PM
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Load test full charge on battery. Battery reads 13 volts crank starter it drops to 11.4 then when idling it goes from 12.6 and slowly goes up to 16.20 volts and doesn't go any higher. That was after idling for 1 minute. Also battery light comes on speedo and needle flickers
 
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by lph008
Load test full charge on battery. Battery reads 13 volts crank starter it drops to 11.4 then when idling it goes from 12.6 and slowly goes up to 16.20 volts and doesn't go any higher. That was after idling for 1 minute. Also battery light comes on speedo and needle flickers
how do I determine if it is the stator, ECM or the rectifier? Also is the rectifier and ecm one unit on this machine?
i read that there were recalls on this year machine for the ecm, how do i check to see if the recall was done on this machine? Also how long do they cover recalls for? Id imagine if it wasn't done yet that it wouldn't be covered on a 12 year old machine lol. Only has 800 miles
 
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by lph008
Battery reads 13 volts crank starter it drops to 11.4 then when idling it goes from 12.6 and slowly goes up to 16.20 volts. Also battery light comes on speedo and needle flickers
Ecm is charging way too much. That's why the battery light is coming on. Ecm needs to be changed before it burns up the battery or possibly can do worse. Recall was a one time deal. If you have the silver ecm,it's been done. Common issue for another to fail.http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Superpow...lZihwY&vxp=mtr
 

Last edited by old polaris tech; 09-12-2017 at 12:58 PM. Reason: ecm recall..
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
Ecm is charging way too much. That's why the battery light is coming on. Ecm needs to be changed before it burns up the battery or possibly can do worse.
so.its definitely the ecm? If hate to order $150 ecm and thenit be the stator
 
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Old 09-12-2017, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by lph008
so.its definitely the ecm? If hate to order $150 ecm and thenit be the stator
I've read quite a few posts that guys replaced ecm and it ended up being stator. After work tonight if like to be able to test the stator to rule it out, if I can find a how to post for the proper way to test it
 


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