Hi guys,

Thanks in advance for any help - first time poster, recently picked up an '07 Sportsman 500 HO EFI, very low hrs and miles. Seemingly barely broken in, but already have had a share of problems, and I'm stuck on one now. I've scoured the forums and have not seen the exact same issue, so posting here in hopes someone can help.

When I turn the ignition key to on, the speedo will light up, fuel pump clicks, etc. - but when I turn the key to "start", I hear a loud click (at the solenoid) and then the speedo/lights/everything go completely dead/unresponsive. After this happens, it will not start with the pull start, and jumping the solenoid does nothing. The ONLY way I can get the speedo to light back up or anything to respond) is to disconnect the battery (both terminals) and then hook it back up. Speedo lights back up again. I can pull start it at this point (although last time I tried it did not pull start either).

Battery is pretty new and measures fine. I've checked all the wiring and nothing appears to be poorly grounded or severed/exposed around the steering column. Ignition switch is good (I checked continuity) and kill switch is OK/acting normal (it will shut off speedo and turn back on when switched). CPS also tests fine, and I have 12V going into PDM even when everything is dead (so fused link is ok). Also – I pulled the ECU, nothing looks obviously bad or corroded at the connector. I did notice that (with power to the speedo) the starter does not turn over when I try to jump the solenoid – in fact, it kills everything just like turning the key switch. If I try to run the winch (which is also connected to the back side of the solenoid), it similarly clicks and shuts everything down, again requiring a battery disconnect/reset before I can get any response. So it seems that high current draw is killing the system.

I’m wondering if its potentially a bad solenoid, although not sure why a bad solenoid would kill everything and why disconnecting battery would reset everything. Which leads me to believe that when I remove the battery cables, it is resetting the ECU or PDM and then it functions (at least to light up the display and pull start), although maybe the solenoid is bad and then the ECU shuts down the system or the PDM trips a solid state breaker - and in either case must be reset before working again (?)

Some history to better explain: it seems to be a problem that has gotten progressively worse. The first time it happened 2 months back (which, incidentally, was right after I replaced the stator and CPS), I was trying to get it off the trailer at the trail and had to disconnect battery completely (only disconnecting negative does not rectify problem), but at the time after disconnecting the battery, it started up via the key/electric start and I ran it all day no problem. Started/stopped (key/electric start) multiple times the rest of that day with no issues, acted normal. Fast forward a few weeks - next time out on the trails, rode 40 miles with no issue (and multiple key/electric start/stops) and then all of a sudden it acted up again. This time, I had to pull start it - the electric start would not work even after disconnecting the battery, tried it multiple times and went through the “disconnect battery – reconnect – light up – click – dead” cycle. But I rode it another 20 miles after pull starting it, just made sure not to shut it off until it was on the trailer and we were headed home. When I got home that evening, it started right up (electric/key start), I drove it to my back yard to clean it up, and that was the last time the key ignition worked. After that, turning the key results in a click followed by a completely unresponsive system. I can start it only by pull start and assuming I have not tried to use the key start - which if I try to use the key, everything is completely dead and nothing will start it. Also, the last time I pull started it, I drove it about 50 feet and it died while running. I have been able to pull start it since, but have not tried to take it anywhere (it is apart in garage now). And I was unable to pull start it tonight.

So – I’m stumped other than thinking about replacing the solenoid. Any thoughts/suggestions?

 

Load test the battery,don't just go by voltage,even a good voltage showing( 12+volts) the battery can still have a dead cell and fail a load test.And in a lot of cases it won't hold a charge(14-14.5 volts) from the pdm module.Also the pdm module can be part of the problem if it's not charging back to the battery at an idle. Plus starter won't engage by jumping the solenoid posts? That tells you right there something is wrong. If the battery fails a load test replace it. When hooked up and running if the battery just shows battery voltage only(12 volts or so) the pcm isn't charging. Common problem for the 2006 and 2007 efi models on this.If you narrow it down to the pdm,there is a place that can rebuild them for 150 bucks versus about 450 bucks for a new one.https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/sh...bution-module/ A manual can help you also if you don't have one. 2007 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI Service Manual PDF Download

 

Thank you OPT. Battery was tested under load when it was last running and was fine, but I'll throw a known good battery from my other quad and check it out. Will report back...

 

So... I'm surprised that a dying battery would elicit this response, but indeed it turns over fine with a known good battery. Just surprised because it appeared to be charging fine when I checked not long back...

Still not starting, now I have to figure out why no spark. But I know the CPS leads are loose in the connector, and will double check the ignition coil too...

Thank you much!

 

You can't just trust voltage reading itself.. Here's a good article on batteries and how to check.https://www.batterystuff.com/blog/ho...ry-is-bad.html

 

Everything is back up and running. Yes understood on the battery voltage static vs under load, my surprise is that the ECU/PDM is designed to completely shut down in this situation. Thank you again for the quick diagnosis!!

 

Seems like the battery is the first and main thing people over look when they have electrical problems. The main consensus is that if it's showing 12+ volts or over,the battery is ok. Under a load a battery can drop voltage and cause all sort of problems,including problems with modules,sensors,etc.Some people then start throwing parts at one and still have the same problems they started out with and less money in their pockets.Glad a simple battery change solved it for you.

 

OPT. Thanks in Advance. Bought a good low hour used 2012 Sportman 500. Started fine multiple times but when we rode it up the ramps to load on truck it cut out when at a steep angle. Now it won't start. just spins but no spark. Bending kicks in. Is there an oil sensor that caused this because it was at a steep angle? Oil is full. Can't get a spark but everything appears to be working.
I don't see a low oil light. There is what looks like a hour glass symbol.

 

Hour glass symbol is just hours accumulated. Start out with the easy stuff first such as a new spark plug as all that it may be is a fouled plug.If that doesn't help then get the cheap manual as it has good ignition trouble shooting checks and tests in the electrical section. Just too many things to type out. Worth the 5 bucks and can help on future service and repairs.2012 Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O. Service Manual PDF Download One of the first tests it shows is to disconnect the black kill wire from the cdi which by passes the ignition and left control switches. If you have spark,the problem could be in either of the switches or rare instances can be a short in the cdi kill circuit itself.Just follow the tests.