New here.

I had my thread posted on PolarisATVForums, and after a few attempts there were no clear answers. They pointed my here seeking OPT. The expert. I'm going to copy and paste the thread here, and hopefully we can figure it out.

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"I recently purchased a used 2006 Polaris Outlaw 500. I purchased it knowing it did not run, however I was looking for a project.
To the best of my knowledge the bike has the KTM 500 in it. Correct me if I'm wrong.
EDIT: Fairly positive it is not a KTM.

The bike turns over fine on its own, and will occasionally fire. Here is a list of everything I have tried/tested:

Compression reads at 110PSI
Has a strong spark (Replaced spark plug)
Valve lash is within tolerance on all four valves
Checked the timing
Redid the timing to ensure I didn't read it wrong.
Pulled the magneto to check if it had spun the woodruff key, looked good
Checked the pulsar coil with a multimeter and the voltage was correct (Can't remember the numbers off the top of my head)
Checked the CDI with multimeter and it read corrected.
Also checked both sides of the coil (from CDI and to spark plug) and it was correct.
Looked all around for any broken or loose wires to no avail.

EDIT: Forgot to mention that I took the carb out and tore it down to the best of my ability. Everything looked clean to me, didn't find any debris. Cleaned it good and put it all back together with the same parts, nothing new.

EDIT AGAIN: I have even tried to squirt a few drops of gas down the head with the intent to bypass the carb if it was bad. Nothing. Acted the exact same.

When using starter fluid through the carb the bike pops a single time but doesn't turnover hard like it wants to start, and occasionally puffs a fireball back into the air box. Hoping its just residual starter fluid burning off.

Give it your best shot, at this point no idea is a bad idea.

I've read through every thread I can find relating to this engine. Feels like I've tried everything.

Thanks ahead of time,

Andrew"

Also, Here is the link to that thread if anyone would like to see our conversation back and forth.

Bike wont start - Need Help - At my whits end - Polaris ATV Forum

 

Correct on this first year Outlaw having a Fugi based engine. It and the Predator 500 both shared the same basic design. Compression sound fairly good as most would show around 95-100 psi because of the compression release on the cam. Most problem I had with these and the Predator was valves. Most came in too tight. You say yours is within specs but I'd double check as this is a shim under bucket system and you need to have a supply of shims to keep on top of this engine.Plus wouldn't hurt to do a leak down test even though compression may be within range.If you have leakage beyond 15% either through the valves or rings,that could be the problem area. You'd also hear air through the exhaust or crank case vent. If leakage is within allowable range,then problem may not be mechanical. Have to have good compression,fuel, air and spark timed correctly. If starting fluid or gas wont kick it off,go with the leak down test first. Then fuel supply to the carb and the carb itself. I know you said you cleaned it and used the same parts. That I'd never do. Rebuild the carb to eliminate it as a problem area. It and the Predator show to use the same Shindy 03-415 kit. Shindy Products, Inc. - ATV Replacement Parts https://www.ebay.com/itm/26229678584...true#vi-ilComp

 

Thanks so far.

I'm fairly certain I read the valve lash correctly, however I can re-check that.

I've never done a leakdown before, what exactly is the procedure for that?

I usually wouldn't put a carb back together without new parts, however I was mainly opening it up to see if it was all clogged and gummed up.
Correct me if I'm wrong but a bad carb shouldn't stop the bike from kicking over and firing with either starter fluid or gas down the head. If I could put gas down the head or starter fluid and get it to run for a second or two, then I would go ahead and fully rebuild the carb.

I'm not too familiar with these electrical systems, but could any of these symptoms relate to CDI, Coil, Pulsar coil, or stator. I did check these however I have heard that they can go bad and still Ohm out correctly.

Thanks so much for the help.

 

Leak down testers are fairly cheap now and a good way to test the status of valves,rings,etc.Plus again air can either be heard from the exhaust if valves are the problem or crank case vent because of worn rings if leak is excessive. The video shows an engine that wont hold any pressure at all on the second gauge. And yes resistance checks are not always 100% fool proof. As far as the cdi goes,most manuals say to replace with a "known" good one. For shops that may have one in stock that may be fine but not always practical for owners to just throw money at parts.Some manuals do show some additional tests such as a cdi test using a meter:
"CDI OUTPUT TEST USING PEAK READING ADAPTOR OR A VOLT METER"
Re-connect all CDI wires to stator wires. Disconnect
CDI module wire from ignition coil primary terminal.
Connect one meter lead to engine ground and the
other to the ignition coil primary wire leading from the
CDI module. Crank engine and check output of CDI
wire to coil. Reconnect coil wire to CDI."

For this Sportsman 500 300 dc volts is what should be shown. As far as the Outlaw manual I'm not sure it shows this test or not.

 

Do me a favor and shoot about 3 seconds of starter fluid directly into the plug hole and see if it fires on that...

 

I will have to look into getting a leak down tester, and perform that test. Do you really think that would keep it from firing and kicking over?

Also, I have sprayed starter fluid directly in the spark plug hole as well as gasoline, and it doesn't fire, or run for a second or two. At most it will crank and crank and give one POP.

 

If it won't at least kickoff on ether or gas then I'd do a leak down test just as a process of elimination. If you can rule out a mechanical or fuel problem such carb cleaned/rebuilt, good fuel supply,etc then sounds like it's back to an electrical problem that you may have over looked. On that I'd go back into the trouble shooting tests and checks in the manual. Something may jump up and slap you in the face. I've had that happen plenty of times on hair pulling electrical problems if that's where the problem is.

 

Well...not running on starter fluid tells us 3 possible issues:
1) insufficient compression
2) insufficient spark
3) if sufficient spark, not at correct timing


Unless, of course, your exhaust valves are stuck closed or you have a clogged pipe (can easily be ruled out by feeling decent pressure on your hand when you crank the motor)...

 

Thanks guys, looks like I've got a few things to look at over the weekend.

DirtDevil I have confirmed good compression, and have a new spark plug that is throwing a good spark.

If spark timing is it how would I check that? I've checked the woodruff key and it was all good and tight. What else?

 

I guess you could validate spark at TDC (or thereabouts) by using a spark checker. It's a small tool that you place on the plug cap and it lights up when spark is fired...You'd just need to know where TDC was on the flywheel and see if the light flashes when it gets there cranking the engine...OPT may have a better suggestion.


Does your machine have a viewing window for the exhaust valve? I'd turn the engine slowly and verify it's actually opening/closing...