2002 Polaris Sportsman HO coolant issue
#1
10-17-2018, 11:17 AM
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2002 Polaris Sportsman HO coolant issue
Ok guys here we go. So I’m going to be doing some maintenance to my Sportsman and I had a couple questions. I went off a couple ramps with it and one time when I landed my hand brakes bottomed out and I had no brakes. After a few more minutes of riding I had pressure in the hand brake and the brakes worked again. The rear brake however doesn’t. The reservoir was empty and the master cylinder is stuck shut meaning the foot brake plays yet the rear brake is not applied. I will be replacing the master cylinder and caliper if necessary and I wanted to know the best way to go about doing the brakes on this machine. Also, i will be doing the front diff and rear diff (trans as well correct?) and also the hub fluid up front. I have the notorious oil pan leak from the drain plug being tightened too hard and wanted to know if i can fit an older metal oil tank in place of the plastic one with no issue so i dont have the leak problem again. Last but not least my biggest issue is coolant loss. Very extremely slow coolant loss happened up front right side and i cannot pin point it. There is no evidence of where it came from and it came out so slow that it barely even left any on the concrete almost as if it seeped out somehow. I filled the reservoir when it was hot because I know its a return system and when i let it sit after use it seems to lose some. All help is appreciated, thank you guys!
#2
10-17-2018, 06:06 PM
The rear brake might just need seals. If you never use it they can dry out. I think you need to bleed the rear brake first, then the left front, and finally the right front. The rear brake is first anyway. I've heard of people using old metal oil tanks on newer Sportsman 500s before. I don't recall hearing about any problem doing it.
#3
10-19-2018, 12:23 PM
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Ok guys here we go. So I’m going to be doing some maintenance to my Sportsman and I had a couple questions. I went off a couple ramps with it and one time when I landed my hand brakes bottomed out and I had no brakes. After a few more minutes of riding I had pressure in the hand brake and the brakes worked again. The rear brake however doesn’t. The reservoir was empty and the master cylinder is stuck shut meaning the foot brake plays yet the rear brake is not applied. I will be replacing the master cylinder and caliper if necessary and I wanted to know the best way to go about doing the brakes on this machine. Also, i will be doing the front diff and rear diff (trans as well correct?) and also the hub fluid up front. I have the notorious oil pan leak from the drain plug being tightened too hard and wanted to know if i can fit an older metal oil tank in place of the plastic one with no issue so i dont have the leak problem again. Last but not least my biggest issue is coolant loss. Very extremely slow coolant loss happened up front right side and i cannot pin point it. There is no evidence of where it came from and it came out so slow that it barely even left any on the concrete almost as if it seeped out somehow. I filled the reservoir when it was hot because I know its a return system and when i let it sit after use it seems to lose some. All help is appreciated, thank you guys!
Personally I wouldnt mess with the foot brake master cylinder. The hand brake runs all three calipers(2 in front, and the rear) so if it works, you have the correct braking ability needed to be safe. The foot brake (in my opinion) was marginal at best on machines(even new units coming off the crate from the factory) Master cylinders arent the cheapest and my thoughts is no better than the rear works anyway, why waste the money!
Trans on that (and most of the machines) HAS to be the correct oil. Don't substitute it, and definately don't use heavy gear oil of any sort. This is the trans, not diffs. Polaris recommends AGL. At my shop we will not use anything but AGL in transmissions. Heavy gear oil will starve a bearing on the top shaft, and its trans rebuild at that time.Got one in here right now with that issue.
Never done the metal oil tank but it sounds like a very good idea to me if it works.
Bottom front right hand side of motor there is the water pump weep hole. Grab a light and look and see if it has evidence there of coolant leaking. Obviously make sure the hose clamps are tight but I'm guessing that may not be it sisnce you said you cant find the leak.
#4
10-23-2018, 01:15 PM
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I fixed the rear master cylinder today. I just like my atuff to work because I know its an almost pointless brake but im OCD. Anyway, I think you misunderstood about the coolant, it seeps from the front as in the radiator area. I filled it and since have not seen any evidence of missing coolant so im not sure now. As far as the fluids they gave me a quart of angle drive for the front diff, a quart of AGL for the rear diff/trans, and a quart of demand drive for the front hubs on the wheels. This sound correct?
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10-23-2018, 02:33 PM
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I fixed the rear master cylinder today. I just like my atuff to work because I know its an almost pointless brake but im OCD. Anyway, I think you misunderstood about the coolant, it seeps from the front as in the radiator area. I filled it and since have not seen any evidence of missing coolant so im not sure now. As far as the fluids they gave me a quart of angle drive for the front diff, a quart of AGL for the rear diff/trans, and a quart of demand drive for the front hubs on the wheels. This sound correct?
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10-23-2018, 04:15 PM
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Ill take the front end apart and look at it. Its best to see coolant level when its hot because of the rise in the reservoir right? Whats the best way to burp it? Also some videos show that the newer sportsmans dont use the angle drive for the front diff. I just want to make sure I put the correct fluid in it and dont mess it up.
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10-23-2018, 05:17 PM
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Ill take the front end apart and look at it. Its best to see coolant level when its hot because of the rise in the reservoir right? Whats the best way to burp it? Also some videos show that the newer sportsmans dont use the angle drive for the front diff. I just want to make sure I put the correct fluid in it and dont mess it up.
The front gearcases dont all use the same fluid. Your machine that has the 4wd in the outer hubs, that gearcase takes an 80-90. The outer hubs use the demand drive hub oil(its a real thin oil) As far as angle drive fluid as a substitute for 80-90, I was under the impression it was basically an 80-90 or 75-90 so in my opinion it will work.
Later models use demand drive hub oil in them, IF the 4wd is engaged in the gearcase. They changed the location where the 4wd components are later and put them in the gearcases, and got rid of the 4wd in the hubs.
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#8
10-23-2018, 07:18 PM
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Ok, you use double negatives so its hard to understand you. So I lift it 6-8” off the floor and run it with the radiator cap ON or OFF? What about the reservoir cap is that on or off while I do this? Also again, the angle drive fluid is for the front differential correct? The hubs take demand drive fluid that I know but angle drive is for the front diff and AGL for the rear diff correct?
#9
10-23-2018, 07:32 PM
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This is a Sporstman 500 correct? Not a 700?
Sorry. Im trying to work at the same time and maybe get in a hurry.
Lift the front end 6 to 8 inches, radiator cap off. Reservoir cap irrelevant for this.
Angle drive is (from my understanding) a close equivelant to the 80-90 that the manual states for your front gearcase. So go ahead and use it.
AGL is for the transmission. AS you call it - "the rear differantial" even though it isnt actually a "differential" So as you state "rear diff" yes, AGL in that.
Ok, you use double negatives so its hard to understand you. So I lift it 6-8” off the floor and run it with the radiator cap ON or OFF? What about the reservoir cap is that on or off while I do this? Also again, the angle drive fluid is for the front differential correct? The hubs take demand drive fluid that I know but angle drive is for the front diff and AGL for the rear diff correct?
Lift the front end 6 to 8 inches, radiator cap off. Reservoir cap irrelevant for this.
Angle drive is (from my understanding) a close equivelant to the 80-90 that the manual states for your front gearcase. So go ahead and use it.
AGL is for the transmission. AS you call it - "the rear differantial" even though it isnt actually a "differential" So as you state "rear diff" yes, AGL in that.
Last edited by 94harley; 10-23-2018 at 07:34 PM. Reason: Had a question
#10
10-23-2018, 08:52 PM
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Very understandable! Yes it is a 500 and I will do that tomorrow. Im using 50/50 prestone green coolant, thats fine right? Also, I want to change my plastics because I have yellow and want the olive green (yellow isn’t for me at all) and I found some plastics on ebay (people must think they are made of gold) and I just want to simply know how the hell you get the front fender on over the handlebars.