This is true, atv manuals typically don't recommend using RTV. Most good engine builders also say not to use it.... Not because of leaks, but because it ***** up, comes off, and plugs oil jets. DansMc says to use Yamabond or whatever its called. Motorcycle Repair Course The suzuki manual says to use Suzuki Bond 1207B.

Personally, I've been using rtv for years on both cars and small engines. Never had an issue. I use the black rtv and very thin amounts. If it squeezes out the side, that's the amount you wasted and what could fall off inside the engine. I suppose if I was in the business of fixin engines, I would use the right stuff, but for what little I do, I'm not worried.

I'm not sure what anaerobic sealer is. That would seem to be a two-part epoxy type thing that you'd have to mix to activate. Otherwise, since there is no air inside the tube, it would harden on the shelf at the store.

 

All the anaerobic sealant that I have used is in a single tube, it's red in color. looks like red jelly....

Anaerobic sealant does not "harden" like silicone will, it will stay gummy to a certain extent.

I have learn a bit about the different sealants out there, when I took my first year of apprenticeship, but do you think that I can remember that far back.... lol

 

What's the name of the anaerobic sealer?

Silicon doen't harden either, it vulcanizes like rubber, hence the rtv (room temperature vulcanization). I guess that process involves oxygen or some element in the air.

Silicon works ok, but I agree there has to be something better out there.

 

LOCTITE® 518™ Gasket Eliminator® Sealant 50 ml 518 Gasket Eliminator is a single component, medium strength, thixotropic, anaerobic sealant; it cures rapidly when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. 50 ml tube.

 

Looks like some pretty good stuff: https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNA...ile/518-EN.pdf

The only problem I see is it won't fill a large gap (bigger than .25mm), but that's not an issue with the nice smooth, flat surfaces of the 230 valve cover. Its stronger than rtv too.

Here's what I've been using: http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/82180.pdf

And here is the permatex version of the anaerobic sealer: http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/51531.pdf

Next time I'm at the store, I'll look for some anaerobic flange sealer and give it a shot.

Atvman, in light on this recent development, it would probably be prudent to change the "rtv" to something like "sealer of choice" or whatever you think it should be. Honestly, if we were talking I would just say "goop". Engines, roofing, fishtanks, windows.... Just goop it. "Goop" is descriptive enough, but doesn't have a product recommendation attached; thus, leaving the door open to further discussion on what kind of goop is best.

Anyway, thanks firstgen for pointing that out. Well done!

 

No, anaerobic sealant will not fill a large gap, it is meant for close metal to metal contact, aka. manual transmissions, transfer cases, valve covers (on our quads) I also use that stuff for sealing the bedplate of an Ford 6.0 Diesel when I reseal them for leaking.

 

My bayou developed a leak one time. It turned out the gasket had hardened and was brittle. There was so much torque from pulling trailer loads of dirt around all summer, that the gasket surfaces by the driveshaft moved and broke the seal. I wonder which sealant would be best in that situation? I know rtv is pretty springy. How does the anaerobic stuff perform?

I ended up using the black rtv... so far so good.

 

In that case, I'm guessing that the RTV is better, especially if the surfaces are moving.

 

i think i might beat this one to the chase and go and weld a nice beed on it before i get 10 feet in the air and the steering stem lets go with my luck it will

 

I actually didn't even get a chance to read through it but I'm sure its fine!