ok so long story short 2 years ago i bought 2 piles of parts from a buddy for 200 bucks ! I knew that the one that was complete minus rear end and motor had ran really well. So at any rate I screwed around and made a bike. Motor was stuck when i got it and i just unstuck it and ran it to see if it would go. And to my surprise it did...with a lil work and good times it actually ran and i got 2 laps around my track and parked it. Satisfied!!!

So here it is a year and a half later and since im laid off for a bit i figure what the hell. I tore apart the top end because of the smoke I had when i ran it and sure enough the sleeve was pitted and very badley in need of a change. SO I Had a 85 lt230ge, (mines and 86 230s) which ran tops but was ruff as hell becasue of no suspension in rear and im too old for no suspension lol
I took the cylinder, piston and rings and put them on my motor. (this is only temp as this winter their will be a complete motor rebuild and bore in the works) I just need a bike for the season.

Anyways the reason for this post is that I had the clutch side cover off becaqsue my kick start gears became unmeshed and i couldnt kick it over. Got that problem fixed but now my clutch doesnt engage when i squeeze the handle... Did i not reset the cover properly or sumthing?? does any1 have a diagram of how to reassemble the clutch rod and cover???

And u guys have helped me lots already even before signing up so heres to an awesome sight for addicts like us

 

i just got done replaceing the clutch on my friends lt230s, 1987, but mainly the same. im guessing the clutch actuator(not 100% on what its called) is not in the correct location. im talking about the horizontal bar on the side of the clutch cover that is moved by the clutch cable. if it is not on that spindle at the right tention your clutch will be loose and wont engadge.

that is what happened to me, just a 5min adjustment. loosen keeper-nut slide actuator off the spindle, then move the actuator back until the cable is tight, then tighten bolt.

that is my guess unless you did not put the spindle in the case cover correctly?

 

im not exactley sure...like i said i pulled the cover off for a kickstarter problem and now i have nuthing...i have tension on the cable and whatnot. ok example...i got it fired up today and pulled the clutch handle in , shifted to first, and stalled


so after an hour of "well what the hell is wrong here and a bunch of other curse words" i figured ok lets take and lock the arm the cable is connected to forward and put in gear and see if i can roll, cuz if the clutch is working , even in gear with clutch pulled in it should roll in gear

well it didnt roll, and this is were im at lol aggravating cuz now i gotta drain it out and pull the cover off. oh well its a learning experiance lol....but im still in need of a breakdown to show what has to be where when put back to gether
thanx guys

 

k well good thing i am mechanically inclined...was hoping for more help from this site but , I guess.. Anyways got the side cover off yesterday and found that my clutch plates where all stuck together and they are pretty spent.
I ghetto cleaned them and put them back in but they are sliping like crazy...QUESTION IS i know the clutch plates in my 230 ge are in awesome shape no slipping....ripp the tires right of the ground in the front when the bike was running..gonna try those and see if they will work in my bike..they look like the right size and spline pattern so we will see....i will keep yall updated even tho only 1 person answered my question...so back to the bike and the side cover lol...what a pain...gettin the clutch pads fron the 230 ge is gonna be the hardest lol
later all

 

I am interested in what you find out. My Clutch on my 87 230s is not disengauging all the way. I can start it and drive it but it is catching and is hard to find Neutral. I imagine I will have to pull it apart and find what parts are worn. If you ever find a diagram or section out of the factory manual let us know and I will do the same. Good luck.

 

let me know what you find out. I am afraid my clutch is starting to go out, it does not slip though. Mine does not seem to desengauge all the way. I can start and drive it, but it catches and is hard to find neutral. So I will probably have to pull it apart and find the worn pieces. If you find a diagram or factory manual pages let us know and I will do the same. Good luck.

 

I was actually able to use the clutch plates from the 85 lt 230ge but i had to use the spacers from my bike. They were still a little loose so i just put in an extra spacer from the 230 ge with mine and its working mint so far.


She still needs a lot of work but i am just lookin for it to make the season and shes getttin a whole engine overhaul with a big boy kit. With the lil bit of extra meat i have fron the cylinder i used being a lil smaller it will make for a lil extra wall for the kit. its a work in progress but she will get there. She is ugly but ill post sum pics so u can see what i used fron the other bike.

As far as ur clutch goes, do u still have all ur gears?? if so i would just say ur clutch disks need to be changed or sumthing.
I am mechanically inclined so i just use common sense and stuff i find on the net, i dont have a manual. the clutch is pretty straight forward. if u pull the side cover off and u can wiggle the plates or spin the center of the clutch where the plates are freely the u need new plates. when the plates are in the basket and the springs tightened u should not be able to spin the basket period.and if u can u need new plates. i didnt see any specific adjustments on my bike for my clutch besides in the cable and the arm to engage it so if there is and sum1 knows where they are please let us know. and again my bike is an 86 lt230s, with a few lt230 ge top end parts strapped on there.

 

I will have to tear into it and see how things work. I assume there has to be something in there, a arm, cam or something, that disengauges the slutch by compressing the springs. I think that what ever it is is worn out from something. It does not slip under power, it just does not disengauge all the way. Wierd. I just thought a factory manual would have tolerance specs for wear parts. (?)

I have a lot on my to do list so I will see when i can get to it.

 

sorry guys its been a while since my last post, been busy with the 230. :P so anyways sum changes to the site since i was last on, will take some getting used to. i finally got the right clutch cable and clutch plates for the bike. they work awesome. so just for sum added info i was having a problem with the carb loading up and gettin too much fuel and it seemed like there was no top end at full throttle. Come to fnd out i was 1 tooth off on the cam when i reassembled and that was the issue. i would try to put the airbox on and as soon as the boot got close to the carb it would try to die. Fixed the timing and now i have a hard time getting traction and keepin the fronts on the ground lol.
SMACKIN MYSELF with globs of mud to the back of the head lol. But just figured i would update. i wanna get sum pics on here soon just so u guys can see what im working with. Its not a real looker but she goes like a bat out of hell. makes me want to get the rebuild kit now but i want to get the season out of it at least. now i just have to get the killswitch and the lights wired up(im not good at wiing at all) gonna look thru the big thread and see if i can find the wiring diagram i saw in there.

talk to yall soon

 

sounds to me like the clucth basket is getting grooves or notches where the plates mesh. is the pull hard?