Appreciate the input Scooter86. I read the clymer manual and it says 20:1. So I was hesitant to apply the 32:1 ratio. When I read that people where going 40:1 I thought it was a bit insane. But it does make sense.

Correct it is currently not running. I pulled the carb. off. I tried the vice grips but I had no success. Unfortunately had to use the metal saw to cut a line through the head. Got a flat-head and grinded it down a bit then used a hammer for a tight fit. Manage to get the 4 bolts off. Looks like I'll be running to Sear's tomorrow.

I figured the gentleman never took apart carb, and when I cracked it open it was surprisingly clean! The mixture screw had some dirt in it, so i sprayed it down with brakleen. Main jet is a 240. I haven't checked the pilot.

I was thinking the same thing, he probably got a smaller dome for more compression. So he added octane to keep it from overheating. I checked the head but did not see any etching. Probably do have to pull the head.

Hope everything is well on your end.

 

Glad you got the bolts off. That is one of the true joys of atv ownership! Right next to the frozen swing arm bolt, lol. For the record I run 32:1. My thinking is it will cut down on blue haze 20:1 gives you, yet isn't as much wear and tear on your top end like 50:1 can be. I know guys running 50:1 with little issue though. Hope you get her running again. 240 seems a bit big to me for a main, how does that compare to stock?

 

If your plug is black and wet after doing a plug chop, you main jet is too big. The pilot jet should not be a factor since it is involved at idle.

 

Yeah the plug is wet and black. I'll look for a rejet kit. I raised the tab in the bowl by a little amount. Not sure how touchy they are, l always manage to mess them up haha.

I hate running octane in it. It adds up after awhile. I think just finding a stock head for it would be my best bet.

 

Don't bother with a kit. Find out what size the stock main jet is first. Assuming you are running a larger main jet, buy yourself a selection within that range. Rocky Mountain is a good place to buy from. Even with the mods you mentioned, I would start with the stock size and work from there. Unlike today's 4-strokes which typically run pretty lean, those 2-stokes tended to run rich. Do your wide open plug readings and adjust accordingly. And it was a good move to check your float level, but you really need to find the specs. It would really be worth you while to get yourself a manual.

 

I went ahead and bought the Clymer manual, boy what a help that book is. It's running very good. Seems like a lot of the oil is leaking between the silence and the expansion chamber. Would it be wise to make an exhaust boot? I feel like if I close it up, it's just going to build up in the silencer.

 

A little exhaust goop is par for the course with 2 strokes. I know the trx250r uses a rubber boot between the pipe and silencer. Don't remember on the zuk, but it is probably the same.

 

Update: Long post, fingers hurt.

This July weekend I am heading to the mountains in PA in Sullivan county. We gotma cabin like 30 mins from Dushore. I have my go-pro mounted up on the helmet and ready to go.

I managed to land a full time job so now I can spend some on the 250r.

Suzuki QuadRacer LT 250R ATV Project Build - Duncan Racing Gives New Life to a Classic Two-Stroke ATV

I fell in love with this thing. I know it has Douglas wheels and ITP holeshot tires but I have not the slightest clue what size they are. I would do the same setup but the rear looks like an 18' and i would rather prefer a 20' in the back.

I have my eyes set on some Ohlins just haven't found any. My quad sits low and I wish it had a taller stance like the one on the site I posted or the YouTube video I will post below.

Should I stick with the stock A-arms and tie rods?
Should I do the camber and bump steer mods? - with all ***** upgrade tie rod kit?
Lt500r A-arms?

Well that is all I can think of at the moment. Thanks for reading it. Here is the link...

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=15V1VbBPILA