A few questions about my 1985 lt230/ Brakes also.
 

I just have a few general questions.

I have a 1985 lt230 that I put together for my son. I used some parts from another 1985 lt230. The one I am using for parts came with what looks to be a good engine that I may be able to rebuild and use. The engine I am running smokes and uses oil, but it runs good.

The engine I am running is marked on the side near the oil 1400ml and the other engine is marked in the same spot 2000ml. Is this just an updated engine that I can still use or do I need another 1400ml engine?

I cannot seem to get the one front brake caliper to bleed right. I am thinking maybe it is leaking air in somehow or the caliper is just bad. I am looking to just change the complete front brakes over from the parts lt230 to the running one, as they seem to hold pressure good. When I switch them over do I need to changed the rotors over also?

Biggest issue is the rear brakes. I gravity bleed them and reverse bleed them. I just can't seem to get any pressure in the rear brakes at all. I put a rebuild kit in the master cylinder and blew the master cylinder out and cleaned it up good while it was apart. I put my finger over the output port and it built up air pressure. I had no problem getting brake fluid to fill the resivor when I put the fluid in from the caliper. I am not sure why it will not build pressure in the rear brakes at this point. Could a bad or sticking caliper cause the brakes to not build pressure? How hard is it to rebuild the caliper if it needs it?

I am also in need of an adapter for my compression tester. I am looking at a 12mm, but I am not sure if that is the correct size I need. Is a 12mm the correct one for these engines?

Thanks for looking and any advice or help you may be able to provide.

The 1400ml and 2000ml are the oil capacity of the sumps, so one engine has a bigger sump than the other. This bigger sump may foul on the frame somewhere if put in the running bike, but it will probably be OK. Quads are pigs to bleed, I don't like doing it, but often have to squeeze the flexible pipe flat, near the master cylinder, with vice grips. You press the lever/pedal down, fit the grips, let the pedal up, take the grips off, and repeat the operation several times, finishing with the normal "close the bleed screw with lever down". Don't forget it takes a few pumps to move the caliper's piston and pads onto the disc, once you have bled it.

Makes good sense. Thanks for the information.