Help! Eiger belt not slipping at idle
 

I'll make this as short and to the point as possible. Took my dad's Eiger out with the wife for some riding, went though some water and belt started slipping. I looked for the drain and couldn't find it so we packed up and went home. After we got home it seemed to not slip almost at all but I wanted to find the drain plug. So, I did and about a tablespoon of water came out. Then I pulled the cover. Belt looked ok but there was a little bit of oil inside the cover. So, time to replace the seal and while I'm at it the belt too.

I replaced the seal and the bearing and put it all back together with a new belt. Now it dies when I put it into gear because it's not slipping on the primary sheave/pulley. So, I switched to the old belt, same result. I've already turned the idle down as far as it will go without dying, so it's not that. Belt is a correct belt and comparing it to the old belt looks to be the same width and length. The width and surface is good on the primary/sheave and I've disassembled, cleaned, and wiped down the rollers with silicone lube. It works flawlessly. Engages good.

Best that I can tell is the belt is riding to high in the secondary sheave/pulley. Belt is outside the sheave/pulley a little bit (it rides high like the pic below, yes it's an Arctic Cat pic but it's the same exact belt drive) . I've taken the secondary sheave/pulley off and it's clean.

Any adjustment that can be done on the secondary sheave/pulley? Looks like there's a spanner nut there but not enough adjustment to get it to slip @ idle.

http://www.arcticchat.com/forum/atta...c_pics_003.jpg

Help!!!! I want to ride!

The belt is supposed to drive all the time that the input shaft goes round. You had the inner cover off to get at the oil seal, so will have seen the centrifugal clutch which cuts the drive when on idle. Seems to me that you may have removed the clutch drum and re-fitted the one way clutch in it backwards, making it drive all the time.

Nope, that's not it. When I first put it back together I did install the one way clutch backwards. I know how it goes in now. The atv still runs and drives properly. Just dies when I stop. The belt is not supposed to drive all the time. The primary sheave/pulley is supposed to turn all the time and at idle the belt is supposed to stop turning. Just like in the video (look at 2:22 on the video)

Thanks for the input though.

That second video is of a Kawasaki style clutch and variator combined, the Eiger has a separate centrifugal clutch. If you notice on the first video when the new belt is on the guy spins the secondary pulley and this turns the front pulley, the belt doesn't slip on the front sheaves.

When a Arctic Cat clutch is working correctly. At idle, if the primary is rotating, you should be able to stop the primary from moving with your foot. The belt doesn't and shouldn't slip against the clutch sheaves. If it did, it would cause a wear spot. Merryman is correct. It's the wet clutch inside of the engine case that allows the engine to spin and not drive the primary.

Thanks for the info you two. So, I sit corrected and it works like this (at the end)?
So, what's wrong with my wet clutch you think? Prob the springs since the clutch surface is gripping?

After you put it all back together the first time, you said you did install the 1-way clutch (I'm thinking you mean the 1-way bearing?) backwards. How did you know you put it in backwards? Because what your describing as your symptoms now, describe the 1-way bearing in backwards.


Did you take your wet clutch all apart during your initial "repair"?

Yes, the one way bearing (or what I like to call the anti reverse bearing). It wouldn't let it go forward and backwards at all and IIRC would stall. Now with it in the way it is it will go forward and reverse it just dies when I stop because the belt won't slip.

I did not take the wet clutch apart at all on the first go around. I've got parts coming to rebuilt it since the clutch in it's entirety is $217 from Rocky Mountain. I got the shoes and springs to rebuild it for $55. Parts came from a Honda that shares the same wet clutch.

Here's the video.
Thanks for the help.

then all that is wrong is your 1 way bearing... just take it completely out... and away you go.

Sarcasm?