Huh? Say What? I thought a Jake brake was nothing more than a compression release on a diesel truck and uses the engine compression to slow the truck without using the brakes.... don't think it touches the braking system.... Don't think they work on gas motors either

 

Yeah I seen deanz comment yesterday and just left it alone. My understanding is that it increases compression braking from the motor. As if 16:1+ compression breaking ISN'T enough. hehehe. I know guys, it's a joke.

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You have to remember, those towing max weights also take into consideration the configuration of the truck. Regular cab, extended cab, crew cab, PLUS long or short beds on all of the above. The towing capacity of your vehicle is affected by how much your vehicle weighs, isn't it? I know my 02 1500 extended cab, short bed 4X4, 5.3 V8 has a smaller towing capacity than my buddies 2002 regular cab long bed 2X4, 5.3 V8. The same goes for the payload of the bed, it's like 1470 lbs in mine, and 1950 lbs in his.

I tow a 26 foot coachman catalina travel, 4400 lbs, and have a 2 quad platform in the bed of the truck for the Lakotas, which makes my bed payload at about 1200 lbs, and with the weight distrobution bars on the trailer, I tow level...

A GREAT place for more info on this kind of topic is www.rv.net they have a forum for every style of trailer, and towing situation, tow vehicles included.

 

I know all of you guys that are into the GVW's and such may have a few comments. But here goes... For all you guys who own 1/2 Silverado's/ Sierra's. Go to your local wrecking yard and pick up a set of 2500 HD rear leaf springs and they will bolt in your truck. They help with the overly soft 1/2 ton springs if you tow alot. They will raise the back of your truck about 1 1/2" to 2". This could be a problem if your truck isnt lifted at all cause stock they are almost 2" high anyways. Just another option for some,That don't want your truck to drop 3" with 500 lbs of tonge wt.

I plan on lifting my 99 Silverado and using 2500HD springs and a shorter block than the lift recommends to level it out.

 

In the future if you can put it in your budjet, why don't you consider an upgrade to a 3/4 or 1 ton for hauling, no fuss, jus a truck built for what we do. just my 2 cents worth, but an idea to mull over.

 

I think you will be fine with the add ons you listed. The truck already has the tow haul mode tranny wich is good and the extra gears will help from taxing the engine/tranny on take off and gear shifts. Once you have your trailer and gear hooked up if your truck sags then add the airbags or helper springs. The Discs and pads are a good idea but can probably wait until you need a brake job as long as you stay under the manufacturer tow weight of 8400. Stay away from cross drilled rotors as they crack easier. Vented discs is all you need to evacuate the gases quicker to prevent brake fade. Have fun as the truck will feel like a real power house with 4:10 gears in it. Keep your wallet handy for gas though. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

There is one down side to this idea, if you are in an accident and you are exceeding the limits of your tow rig you can be held at least partially at fault wether you were or not. "You were unable to rapidly manuever your vehicle and trailer due to the excessive weight to avoid the accident"

 

The original poster has already stated that he is not going to go over the specified limit for his truck. He posted earlier that he has literature that states a tow rating of 8400# for a factory equipped truck with the same frame and brake components, however he is only going to 6400# which is the limit of his truck as it sits now. All the changes are going to do is make his truck tow the 6400# easier.

 

That's what I was thinking as I read this post. All these mods will not increase the towing weight but just make the towing safer and easier.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

 

I decided to get a bigger truck instead.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]