Back in my younger days, I towed a 17 1/2' fiberglass trihull boat with a 1972 Toyota Celica. (No trailer brakes.)

 

Usually the tow package includes these:
[*] larger/heavy duty radiator[*] auxillary transmission cooler (of course, for AT trannies only)[*] Towing receiver[*] wiring harness (and possibly other wiring to the fuse panel for "plug and play" brake controllers. Might be there even w/o the package.)

As for the rear end. 3.55:1 is the mileage gear. Not great for towing, but will work, for lighter work. Towing any substantial will SEVERELY impact the mileage. If you are going to tow a lot, with a lot of weight, look at dropping all the way down to a 4.10 rear. Split the difference with the 3.73 if you wish.

Non-limited slip rear means that only one tire at a time is providing power. A LSD includes a clutch pack that lets one side slip (generally for cornering). If you're never in loose traction situation, it's not a necessity. Really helps for sand traction, or when it's muddy. There are 3 "types" of differentials, or setups:
[*] Non-limited slip. aka "open diff". This is the standard. Light up the rear and you'll only see one tire track[*] Limited slip. Each manufacturer has their own name that they sell under. Basically it's a clutch pack in the rear diff that will slip when it needs too. Like on dry pavement when cornering, especially tight turns. Used in a lot of sports cars. Note, this is NOT traction control that's switchable.[*] Locking Diff. On a locker, a mechanical linkage of some kind connects both sides of the axle together, creating a solid axle, much like your standard solid axle on a quad. Doesn't turn worth a beans, but provides great traction.

Lockers are available in mechanical (Dana), Electric (GM provides this option, first available on the H2) and there's the pneumatic (ARB). Mechanical units are noisy and make thunking noises. Electrics will usually disengage over about 30 MPH...sucks running the dunes. You have to stop, shift to neutral, engage locker, back in gear, go. Pneumatic (at least ARBs) operate on high pressure (+/- 100PSI) with low volume. Switch operates a solenoid that lets air in, engaging the locker. Releasing the solenoid allows springs to open the locker up for normal maneuvering. This requires either an air tank on board, or a small electric compressor. Most guys go with the compressor. Gives them onboard air in emergencies. low volume = 5 minutes to fill a 35" BFG A/T.

Frame mounted hitch will probably set you back $100-150. Installation should be about an hour for a pro, maybe longer on a DIY project. Pretty simple. All frames are predrilled for them. Just put it under there, bolt it on and voilage. My factory Ford unit has about 4 or 6 bolts to the frame and 2 to the rear bumper. You can get adapters that plug right into the factory lighting harness in the rear. If you nead electric brakes, then you'll probably have to run some of your own wiring, maybe. Trailer packages come with a plug under the dash, and usually include the other side of the plug with pigtails to wire to your brake controller.

Brakes may or may not be needed based on Ford's recommendation, and/or your state Vehicle Code. CA requires brakes on the trailer over 3500 lbs GVW for utility trailers and 1500 on trailer coach (travel trailer, toy hauler, etc.) These can be either electric, or hydraulic. Each system has it's pros and cons.
[*] hydraulic: basically hitch it up and connect three chains. 2 safety chains and the brake chain. Can be problematic on a lot of downhills as it WILL apply the trailer brakes as it pushes into the tow vehicle. aka "surge brakes"[*] electric: much better control. Need to adjust the controller based on trailer loads, and each trailer. Allows you to activate the trailer brakes only to bring a swaying trailer under control. Probably more maintenance as you need to maintain an auxiallary brake battery on teh trailer.

Most bumpers are rated at about 500lb hitch weight and 5000lb total trailer weight. The receiver will give you better control. Plus you don't have to worry about backing into the tongue and destroying your lic. plate. The receiver also allows you to adjust the tongue height based on the drawbar. Makes it easy if towing different trailers. At work we have drawbars with standard 2-5/8" ***** and the others with pintles on variable height drawbars. (Pintle/lunette eye is what you see on a lot of heavy duty trailers. The trailer has the lunette wich is a ring. The tow vehicle has the pintle which clamps through the lunette.

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As you said. OHC = overhead cam. The Tritons are MOSTLY single overhead cam. One cam with both exhaust and intake lobes in each head. In that this engine is "modular" the same block can be used with a DOHC (dual overhead cam) head design. This is what the Mustang Cobra's run, as well as the Ford GT. DOHC has two cams per head. Each cam is dedicated to operating either the intake or exhaust valves.

OHV is overhead valve. This is the old style motors with a single in-block cam. The cam operates both intake and exhaust valves on both sides of the motor (in V configurations) via pushrods and rocker arms.

DOHC cams usually operate the valve by pushing down on it from above. usually there's other pieces in there, like a follower that better mates with the cam lobe.

SOHC usually have some kind of rocker arm or whatever to actuate the valve. Rockers are like teeter totters. On side has a valve, the other has the follower (or whatever it's technical name is.)

DOHC @ Howstuffworks.com

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B/Rwarrior. Thanks so much for all the info. This will be the first time that I've towed anything ever and I can just see the trailer passing me going down the highway. I know that this want ever happen, but I just want to make all my mistakes on paper instead of having to return something that want work or is to big to tow. I found a trailer building place here local and they have what appears (to someone that know nothing about trailers) to be a well made trailer.


2x3x3/16 Angle main frame
2x2x1/8 Angle crossmembers
2x2x1/8 Angle top rail
(1) Ea. 2,900 lb Axle
Treated wood floor
Stake pockets
15" 5 hole wheels
205-15" used tires
2,000 lb. cap. jack
2" coupler
safety chains.

Does this seem like a good Trailer to you guys. It's a 5x10 for $749. It's made alot better than those lowes ones are. Again Thanks.

 

Seems decent. Nice price I would think. I don't know how much the builders around here charge for something like that. Only thing I'm leery of is used tires, especially with a single axle. Then again, most trailer tires rot before they wear out. But you can probably replace those for a decent price.

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Its good that your being cautious and asking questions , rather than doing something stupid like , tow 4 quads on a tandem axle trailer with a chevy tracker [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]
Really though you have absolutely nothing to be concerned about .
A full size half ton truck like yours is more than capable than towing a small trailer with a quad .
Your tow rating is probably around 7000lbs even without the tow package , 4 quads on a tandem axle car trailer would even be within your limits .
I would think you could get away without a frame mounted hitch , usually a bumper mounted tow ball is rated for 500lbs tongue weight and one quad should not give you that much tongue weight unless it is not loaded correctly , remember , you want about 10% of the total trailer weight on the tongue for it to tow nicely without any swaying .

 

I'll be towing 2 quads. Mine a Polaris TB250 and a Polaris SP90. I've measured and they will both fit. The 90 will just have to go side ways. Anyway should I have the 250 up front or in the back. You know for tounge weight and all. Thanks

 

Try to keep your weight evenly distributed over the axle and do not put too much on the front. You do not want too much on the back of the trailer that the trailer tips back if it is not attached, yet you do not want too much on the tongue that you cannot lift it.

Your truck will not even break a sweat hauling your trailer.

 

Thanks guys. When I bought the truck new back in 01. I never thought I would tow anything. So I didnt upgrade to the towing package and such. My next truck I'll upgrade to all these options. I've always liked to have more than I need than less, and hope it works. Anyway when I got into ATVing I just had the 1 TB250 that I would load in the back and haul. Bad thing with that is I had to have the tail gate down when hauling. Then I got my kids a SP90 and havent been able to ride with them because of no way to haul both. I would have to take them to a place that had a small crazy 8 style track, and watch from the side line. They got tired of that real fast. So this summer and spring I'll get me a trailer. Thanks for all the help. Oh and I'll get me a set of new tires right off the bat, along with a spare. The trailer saleman said that I didnt need to have the tire balanced, but I dont see why it would hurt. I'll have it done when I have the new tires put on. Thanks again

 

You can buy a 16' for $800. Price seems a little high IMO.

Buck