<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: jaybeecon55

The smaller wheels are harder on bearings. Small wheels spin faster than larger wheels. When traveling at highway speeds the bearings on a small wheel could be rotating at twice the speed as those of a larger wheel. So try for a larger wheel if you can find it. The 5x8 size should work well. No worries about brakes since you're way under 3000#. The truck should have no problem hauling a trailer and one ATV.</end quote></div>

Thanks for the great explanation of the difference between small and large wheel size. I imagine that the 13's would be fine. I am estimating the weight to be in the neighborhood of 1300 lbs. (550 for the bike full of fuel, 750 for the trailer...I may be overestimating for the trailer).

I also have some questions about trailer maintenance. What are the things that I should do on a regular basis to keep the trailer in top condition? I have noticed that trailers seem to be quick to rust. How do you address that? A shot of rustoleum paint on rusting spots?

 

Yes, 750 pounds for a single axle trailer of that size is too high - probably only half that weight.

For a small trailer such as this, the main maintenance area is the wheel bearings. You can either make it a habit to inspect and repack at least once a year or get a set of bearing buddies so you can easily keep enough grease in the bearings. This is more important if you tow for long distances (more chance for high heat to develop) or if the wheels get dunked in water a lot (like if it was a boat trailer).

There is not much you can do about the rusting issue unless you keep your trailer indoors. There are so many nooks and welds that can hold moisture that it just going to rust. All you can do is keep some touch-up paint handy and repaint before the rust developes to any thickness. I usually touch up my trailer two to three times a year - only takes a few minutes and that's on a larger trailer. Using a matching spray can is quick and easy, but when I really want to protect and repaint I use an oil based brush on paint.

On your earlier question about the mesh decking - It works fine and is easier to clean both the quad and the trailer. One thing though - Usually the mesh has some form of extra support frame underneath it. If the center of your quad's wheels are not sitting on top of other support and are just sitting on the mesh, then the mesh will tend to bow downwards fairly quickly. Once it stretches out like this it will never go away. It will not break, but it looks strange so if that is how your quad lines up on your new trailer you might want to add something underneath.

Jaybee

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: jaybeecon55

Yes, 750 pounds for a single axle trailer of that size is too high - probably only half that weight.



For a small trailer such as this, the main maintenance area is the wheel bearings. You can either make it a habit to inspect and repack at least once a year or get a set of bearing buddies so you can easily keep enough grease in the bearings. This is more important if you tow for long distances (more chance for high heat to develop) or if the wheels get dunked in water a lot (like if it was a boat trailer).



There is not much you can do about the rusting issue unless you keep your trailer indoors. There are so many nooks and welds that can hold moisture that it just going to rust. All you can do is keep some touch-up paint handy and repaint before the rust developes to any thickness. I usually touch up my trailer two to three times a year - only takes a few minutes and that's on a larger trailer. Using a matching spray can is quick and easy, but when I really want to protect and repaint I use an oil based brush on paint.



On your earlier question about the mesh decking - It works fine and is easier to clean both the quad and the trailer. One thing though - Usually the mesh has some form of extra support frame underneath it. If the center of your quad's wheels are not sitting on top of other support and are just sitting on the mesh, then the mesh will tend to bow downwards fairly quickly. Once it stretches out like this it will never go away. It will not break, but it looks strange so if that is how your quad lines up on your new trailer you might want to add something underneath.



Jaybee</end quote></div>

Ahh, more great information! I have been up to Lowes and looked at their trailers. They seem to be rusting right there on the lot...so I know you will have to keep up with them or it will get out of control. A wire brush and touch up paint will be mandatory.

On a side note, I did some looking around on the site here. It seems that the Triton aluminum trailers are well thought of. Their website is a little frustrating though. They don't list prices and to find a local dealer I have to call them. I did and got voicemail. Price is a factor of course.

 

I use tractor paint on mine. Get a gallon and a couple of spray cans for touch up. Spend a weekend putting on several coats of paint it doesnt take long. Throw a coat on drink a beer, another coat take a ride, another coat cut the grass etc. etc. Your truck will pull one bike just fine. I used to haul my predator in the bed and two bikes on my trailer. My Ranger had the 4.0 but didnt have much trouble just a little bouncy had to have an overload spring put in. In my opinion I would buy the biggest trailer you can afford b/c down the road youll be replaceing your 5x8.

 

I was worried about weight as well since my vehicle has a low tow rating so went with Triton. Got a good deal on a used AUT8-64. It weighs 375 instead of the 650 that the steel trailer I was looking at weighs and don't have to deal with rust. You may want to check the local classifieds for a used trailer. They all lose a good bit of their list price pretty quick.

 

It should say on your bumper that is good for 2000 tow / 200 tongue weight which is easily enough to tow what you need. To make it even easier go with an aluminum model which will be 1/2 the weight and will last longer. When I had my ranger towed a 2 place Triton X10 with a sportsman 800 & an outty 400 with no problem.

 

If you can afford it, an alluminum trailer weighs a lot less, and with the price of gas, will pay for its self in fuel costs. They do not cost all that much more... About 20 percent more. Second, all of teh guys up north in snowmobile country will tell you that the small tires are OK. That is all you can find for most snowmobile trailers as they are typically a deck-over design. Anything taller and teh deck will get pretty high, with a high center of gravity and then you have to contend with wind effect, and given you are towing with a light truck in teh first place, that would not be a good thing. I wouldn't sweat the small wheel/tire combination. I would recommend getting brakes on it if they offer them. I am guessing, but combine weight can easily go over 1000 lbs with your trailer/ATV. I'd really think about getting a good hitch with that kind of weight. I just do not trust the bumpers. I work too hard for my money to watch it go tumbling down the road... What ever you get, keep packing the wheel bearings at least once a year. more often if you put a lot of miles on them...

 

Okay, I've been looking and I think I have found the right trailer. It is all aluminum and made by Newmans. It has a torsion axle and the size is 5X8. It is one year old and he wants $1000. Is that a decent price for what appears to be a high quality trailer?

 

Sounds pretty good for an aluminum trailer. I think I paid $700 new for a steel trailer like the one next to the aluminum in your photo, it was 5x8 also. Looks like you have hubs that you can lube yourself.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: reno82

Sounds pretty good for an aluminum trailer. I think I paid $700 new for a steel trailer like the one next to the aluminum in your photo, it was 5x8 also. Looks like you have hubs that you can lube yourself.</end quote></div>


Yes, that was another of the features...you take of the cap and do the lube right there.