Dang man, your warrior is going to be modded pretty good. Be sure to get some pics up sooner or later?

 

Hi "Baseball"!

Yes, I'll get some pics up after I at least get the pipe and air box done. I'll try to put up the ones I have of it now as it is pretty much stock.

I just bought a full DynaJet kit today as well for the mods I'll be doing.

I was just in a deep stare at that piston/cam kit, and almost hit the buy button today, but that will put me behind on some bills, so I will get it next payday! Plus, I need to locate a machine shop that bores cylinders 1 or 2 over. I was trying to decide whether to keep it stock bore, which I probably can as long as the cylinder doesn't have ripples, or irregularities in it now, but while it's all torn apart, and not knowing the condition of the stock bore right now, I might as well get it bored 1 over.

Not sure yet what to do with that, maybe somebody can advise.

I'm going to go look at the 464 kit again. Who knows!

I'll get back to ya on that.

At the minimum though, I'm gonna buy the high compression piston and cam kit though like next payday, and polish the head, which is most likely. The 464 would be something to do over the winter because you have to spit the case and send the case sides away to have them machined for larger crank bearings for that 464, so that is a major ordeal, and money involved, but it would be the ultimate!

I don't know how relaible that is as well, but I also believe you are getting into buying a racing clutch and all that so there are some really big things to consider stepping up to that level, but I bet it would be kick butt!

A little 'ole warrior sitting there looking as whimpy as can be by today's standards, and then someone hits the starter button, and blam - 464! Yeeea!

That would be so cool!

OR

You don't tell anybody, and you always keep your mods a secret, knowing you've got 464 under the hood, and you even taunt young dudes that have a Z400 or something, especially anybody who thinks they are a bad ***, and they get all stupid with you, and want to run you, and then you smoke their doors in! Ha Ha! That has to be the best feeling being the underdog and then kicking butt!

It's how things were done in the old days.

I just talked to a guy that rides with a friend who has a YZF450, but they can't figure out what he's got going on because he smokes anything put against him including Raptor 700s modified, and even big *** street bikes! He actually bets $1000 per race against people, and then uses the winnings to pump more into his YZF! Nobody knows what the hell he has in that thing, but it's not stock! I wouldn't be surprised if he's running nitrous with mods!

Nobody can touch him! He has people who put down a $1000 from out of state even, and takes their money!

He is also fearless of his machine! Apparently, on blacktop, he dumps the throttle in a quick second facing away from you, and the next thing ya know, he's facing ya like right now!

This guy tells me about it, but i haven't seen it myself, but it is a hell of a story, and he is not someone to lie about stuff, or exaggerate. This YZF dude is supposed to be one crazy *****!



1982 Yamaha XT 250 (Like the one Rambo steals, and runs from the Sherrif in Rambo - First Blood (Sold in 1989!)
2000 Yamaha Warrior 350 (K&N -w- drilled box lid, jetted, T4/496 silencer, Holeshot rears - Just Beginning!)
2001 Honda Recon 250 (All stock)
2006 SUNL 110cc (11t front sprocket)

 

$200 doesn't sound bad as long as the silencer is in good condition. That'll be quieter than the HMF too, and about the same power gain. In my opinion they're way overpriced new compared to what else is out there, but that also means that not many guys have them and it'll stand out a little more.

I got my head P&P done at the local powersports shop where I go for almost everything. It's called Sanderson Powersports, in Dover. I don't know if you're familair with Brian Fisher, but he's the host of an atv tv show (fisher's atv world) and this used to be his old shop until a few years ago.

My stock rear axle bearings lasted up to about a year ago, but we have a lot of rocky trails here which puts a lot of stress on the bearings, and my warrior was rode pretty hard before I ever got it so yours may be good for a few more years. When they do go out you can tap the carrier and put a grease zerk in it then, but I never bothered with mine. They seemed to be sealed up pretty good so I wouldn't worry about it too much, they are the sealed type bearings, and there is also a better spring tensioned seal outside of that so it's unlikely the water will ever get close to the bearings. Where yamaha really needed to put a grease fitting is in the swingarm pivot, because those needle bearings don't last too long without grease, and the rubber seals aren't that great to keep the water out.

The alba 400 kit is way overpriced, as is most alba products. You can get a Hot Rods 400 stroker kit with CP piston for around $550 or $650 I think, and that doesn't even require the cases to be machined like the alba kit. I can't really say how hard it is to split the cases because I never had to myself, but from what i've heard it's one of those things that's fairly simple to do if you take your time, don't rush, and know exactly how everything works before you even loosen the first bolt so there's no surpises. I bet the Hot Rods 400 kit, along with all the smaller stuff like carb, exhaust, intake etc would about double the power output, which should put it close to the big boys like raptors, banshees, and 450s. I wouldn't want to go any bigger than a 400. After all this is an air cooled engine, and i'd be worried about the reliability of the bore/stroke kits like the powroll or fst.

Don't worry about the clutch, even the stock one isn't bad, but when it goes an EBC replacement is only $75 with a clutch cover gasket, and is a breeze to install. That should handle anything the warrior can put out easily, I haven't made my EBC slip the slightest bit yet and i'm hard on it, especially when i'm towing the broken down suzukis back to the trailer.

 

Thanks Recon,

I have to decide how far i want to go with this because if i were going to stroke it, it's something I want to do all at once with matching piston, and cam in a kit that has been tested together.

I want to stay away from mixing and matching when it comes to modifying the engine that much. Tested kits only.

I don't need bent valves and all that.

Yea, I'll look for those lower cost kits you're talking about. Alba was just the first place I saw this stuff.

I'll take a look

 

Recon,

That stroker kit does not include a cam. How do you know what kind of cam you can use with that kit without the valves hitting the piston, etc. I guess, I could ask them how much lift I'd be allowed with that piston and stroke, or what kind of cam to use with it.

I'm wondering which gives what kind of power because it looks like the 400 kit has a lower compression piston, and no cam, or springs vs the higher compression piston with cam and Ti springs (higher rpms) in the Alba kit.

Plus, I wouldn't have to split the case. I was just thinking that with the higher compression piston bored oversize, plus the cam, maybe it would be close to the same gains? Ya know, how much would I really be giving up there?

Of course the 400 kit would have more displacement, so with the right cam, it would maybe pull in more mixture than the smaller bore even with a longer duration, high lift cam?

You are just running a piston right now, correct? With your carb, piston, and P&P is that what allows you to take a stock "Z"?

As long as I can take a Z in a drag, I'll be happy! I at least have to be able to do that! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

Unless, I'm really loosing alot by not going to a 400, I'd prefer not to get into it, and get into that whole case opening business. I'm kind of leaning that way at this point.

Are there any other company's that make the top end kits?

Let's just say I'd prefer to limit myself to the top end at this point, and leave the crank alone, unless it's some bigtime loss over going high compression with cam, etc..

If I were to keep the stock bore, and not do a P&P job, I could do the whole job in one day.

I guess an oversized piston (bore job), and P&P would make a good bit of difference for very little extra cost? What do you think?

 

You'll gain about twice as much just with the 400 stroker than you would get from the cheaper alba kit, and with the .450 lift cam you would loose a noticable amount of bottom end power. High compression pistons really don't do that much for warriors, they make a more noticable difference in throttle response and how quick they allow the engine to rev than they actually boost the power output. I know that a .430 lift webcam will work with the Hot Rods stroker kit, because a guy over at yfm350 central.com had that setup on his warrior. A .430 cam is balanced better so there's not so much of a low end power loss, but rather a flat power gain through the revs so that's what I would choose. Everybody mixes and matches different brand components on warriors, and I never heard of any compatibility issues from it. It's all your judgement in the end as to what you do with your warrior. You can go without the stroker and still have a fast machine, but bang-for-the-buck the stroker is the best value.

All of the aftermarket components on my warrior are working together to let me outrun z's. The intake and exhaust also make a considerable difference, along with the carb, p&p, and piston. A p&p by itself doesn't make a real big difference, I just had mine done while the top end was apart for a rebuild, and plan to put a cam in eventually when I decide it needs to be faster. Once you get a high lift cam in there is when the p&p really brings it to life.

All the companies that make top end components/kits for the warrior that I know of are Hot Rods, Four Stroke Tech, Powroll, and Cycle Works Racing. Cycle works racing is a little known company, local to me, that seems to be making good stuff at low cost, so definitely check them out too (cycleworksracing.net)

One more thing, just an overbore on the stock sleeve won't make any noticable difference, it's only a few cc's difference. I'd still do at least a 1 over to be sure that you have a clean start, and don't have to worry about whether the cylinder wall was in as good of shape as it looked. For the $40-60 that it costs for a bore job I wouldn't leave it to chance.

 

One more thing I thought I should add, it would be a good investment to add an oil cooler setup to your shopping list along with whatever else you decide on. There are numerous benefits of adding a cooler, including longer component life and better reliability, more consistent perfromance, longer oil life, and it also helps to decrease heat related transmission problems. Once it got up to operating temp my transmission would frequently refuse go into neutral or come out of reverse unless I shut the engine off, until I got the oil cooler. It's simple to do, and my big bear setup cost me about $120 in parts and didn't require any drilling or tapping.

 

Ditto, only if you get a stroker kit or bore it out, Its pretty much a must if you want to keep your engine from going bye bye

 

Hey All!

Well, I have the Pro Circuit 496, the K&N, and the jet kit is on its way.

Does anyone know what size jets I should be running with this K&N, and 496 combo?

I'll be putting it all together this Thursday comming up.

Thanks!

Bill


1982 Yamaha XT 250 (Like the one Rambo steals, and runs from the Sherrif in Rambo - First Blood (Sold in 1989!)
2000 Yamaha Warrior 350 (K&N -w- drilled box lid, jetted, T4/496 silencer, Holeshot rears)
2001 Honda Recon 250 (All stock)
2006 SUNL 110cc (11t front sprocket)

 

I'd try either a mikuni 147.5 or 150, but dynojets are a pain in the **** and use a different sizing scale so i'm not sure what size you would use from your kit. The jet kit's instructions include jetting baselines, it's probabably best to start with whatever they recommend starting with.