Wolverine Exhaust valve tight. Symptoms?
 

I just got my 2000 Wolverine and trying to go through it and make sure everything is right on it. I got the service manual. I havent checked the intake valve yet, since it seems you have to take off the front fenders and gas tank. The exhaust valve is extremely tight. I cant get any feeler gauges in there. I want to adjust it, but looks like you need the special tool? Small square tool? The service manual has the part number, but wondering if any one used anyother tool.

Since it is so tight, what problems would this give?

Also compression on cold engine was 150.

Wolverine Exhaust valve tight. Symptoms?
 

You were right to check compression, because itll show up there. Itll also be hard starting when cold, if the exhaust valve is sightly open (tight).
Make sure youre on the correct tdc. There are two tdc. Cams run 1/2 speed of crank, so you might be at the tdc of the exhaust stroke. You want to be at the tdc of the compression stroke.

Wolverine Exhaust valve tight. Symptoms?
 

there's only 1 TDC on the flywheel

Wolverine Exhaust valve tight. Symptoms?
 

Just replying so I can follow this thread.

Wolverine Exhaust valve tight. Symptoms?
 

Yep, thats correct. A 4 stroke motor requires 720 degrees of crankshaft revolution (360 degrees of camshaft revolution) for a full cycle. If you rotate the crankshaft another revolution (360 degrees), youll be at the other tdc. Youll know when you have the correct tdc..both rocker arms will wiggle with simple finger pressure, (if on the other hand, the exhaust rocker is tight..its the wrong tdc.)

Wolverine Exhaust valve tight. Symptoms?
 

Well I figured since I was messing with the valving I would just do both. Took fuel tank out, didnt take off fenders like it said. I followed my service manual and had the T lined up, adjusted both valves. Put it all together and was clacking so loud. I checked the exhast side since it is easy to check and it was way loose. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img] So.... I took it all back apart again and made sure it was on the T. Re adjusted about 10 times each trying to make sure they werent too loose or to tight. I need to buy the tool with the square fitting to make it easier. I would tighten the bolt and it would tighten the valve clearance. I was getting pissed, then I started confusing myself what size to use for what port. I found a small adjustable wrench that I got in there, held the feeler gauge and with my 4th hand I tightened the nut. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img] After I was all done, I put the fuel tank back in, but didnt put any bolts back in just in case I had to re adjust. Whala, done. It sounds good and I am pretty confident they are set right. Saves me about $200 that someone else wanted to charge me to check and adjust the valves.

Wolverine Exhaust valve tight. Symptoms?
 

Sweet. Glad you got it set! It seems like that tool would make life easier. I imagine it's something the dealer may have?

Wolverine Exhaust valve tight. Symptoms?
 

Here is a good writeup I found about finding TDC and how to use the feeler gauges. May not be specific to what you need, but gives good descriptions. Also here is a tool set that I am sure would make this much easier. On the Wolverine it is a 10mm nut, but I am not sure if the square is 3mm or 4mm. Maybe you could also use a 3 or 4 mm wrench, if they make them that small. http://atvpartsdepot.stores.yahoo.net/698073.html I think I am going to order the tools and re do it, just to make sure it is 100% right. I am pretty sure it is right, but I am just that particular I want to make sure.

From Google search:
"I have a set of ignition wrenches from sears that fit the small head but a
small crescent will work. Take your time and get the feel for it. It can be
frustrating the first time you do it but you will get the hang of it.
Remember to check them on TDC of the compression stroke this is when all the
valves ar closed. The hardest part about doing them on the Grizzly was
getting all the plastic off!

Here is some text explaining the process it is from
www.http://www.ansley.net/service.php . It isn't for your machine but the
principles are the same. Hope it helps.
John


Adjusting The Valve Clearance Adjusting the valve clearance is fairly easy
after you've done it a few times. This procedure will need to be modified
slightly for different quads. You will need to remove some plastic to get to
the valves. On both my Rancher and Rubicon I can removed the side panels and
gas tank cover. Then I can unscrew the gas tank and wedge it out of the
plastic. This beats removing the entire front plastic. After you remove the
gas tank there is a piece or white plastic that will need to be removed
also. The valve cover(Rancher - Rubicon) should be what you will see now
(there may be more than one depending on the atv...my rubicon has 2 the
rancher has 1). Now, go to the side of the quad that the foot brake is on
and there should be a small circular piece of metal with a hex hole in it.
This is the timing hole cover. Unscrew it and set the cover aside Now go
back to the valve cover and make sure there is no dirt around the cover, you
do NOT want any dirt in the valves. If neccesary brush any dirt away from
them. Then unsrew the bolts to it and carefully remove the cover. This
should expose the valves. You will now need to find what is called TDC (top
dead center). Use the pull rope to move the flywheel. As you pull the pull
rope SLOWLY look into the timing hole. You may need a flashlight. If you
look in the hole you will see the flywheel. It will have some markings on
it. You are looking for the "T" mark. You should two lines, then a "F" then
a "T" then a break before you see them again. Now as you are looking for
this also keep an eye on the valves. This is where a friend comes in handy.
You should see things in this order:
exhaust valve opens (piston moving up in exhuast stroke)
exhaust valve closes
"T" in window (piston at TDC but on the wrong stroke)
intake valve opens (piston moving down in intake stroke)
intake valve closes
big break of nothing in window (piston moving up in compression stroke)
"T" in window (TDC)
big break of nothing in window (piston moving down in power stroke)
You want to have the "T" in the window on the compression stroke. This will
take some time to learn which stroke you are in. Please note that you will
see the "T" at what is not TDC. You DO NOT want the "T" when you are between
the exhaust and intake valves moving. Again...this will take time to learn.
Note that when I state that a valve opens this means that the valve if seen
from above will move downwards. You will be pulling on the rope very slowly.
You will probably shoot past the "T" many times!! If you go past the "T" by
even a little bit...start over. Now you will need to loosen the locking
nuts. After these are loose then you can slide the feeler gauges under the
valves. You will need one feeler gauge for each valve. For the Rancher you
need two gauges of .006 inches. For the Rubicon you will need 4 gauges, two
.006 for the intake valves and two .009 for the exhaust valves. You can look
at the side view to see where you will be putting the gauges. After all the
feeler gauges are in place you can adjust the valves with a flathead
screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver into the slot in the top of the gauge.
Screw in to tighten and screw out to loosen. You will need to tighten the
gauge so that you can pull the feeler gauges out but NOT push them in.
Getting this down is an art form! Once you have the valve adjusted you will
need to tighten the locking nut (leave the feeler gauges in their place).
This is done easiest with a closed head wrench (metric 10 I think) on the
nut while a screwdriver is holding the valve adjustment in place as seen a
href="pic.php?image=service/valves/adjusting.jpg">here. Once you have it
hand tightened you will need to use a torque wrench to get it torqued all
down. IF YOU DO NOT USE A TORQUE WRENCH THEY WILL COME LOOSE AS SOON AS YOU
START THE ENGINE. Torque the locking nut to 12 lb/ft. Now check the feeler
gauges again and make sure the the valve is adjusted like stated above. If
they are out of spec you will need to try again. This usually takes 1-2
times to get it right. After ALL of the valves are adjusted you can now
remove the feeler gauges. Now reinstall the valve cover and tighten the
nuts. There were not any specs on these nuts in the service manual so I hand
tightened mine. Then you will need to reinstall the timing hole cover and
torque it to 7 lb/ft. Then put all the plastic back on and you are done! Now
fire up the quad. If for any reason it sounds worse you were not at TDC.


NOTE: I have heard of people stating that when they got to the valves they
were in spec. If in spec is when you can pull the feelers out but not push
them in how could you tell if they are in spec since you couldnt put the
feelers in? They are only in spec in my opinion AFTER you adjust them. Some
of the pictures above were from the service manual which does NOT show a
feeler gauge for each valve. I have always been told that you MUST have them
so that is what I do."

Wolverine Exhaust valve tight. Symptoms?
 

I dont agree with this part. Im a machinist and checking and measuring clearances is part of my training.
Use a few different sized feelers. They can be bought at any auto parts store. Go by one increment at a time. If .005 goes in the clearance, but .006 doesnt, you know the gap is between .006 and .005 inches. If its too tight to slip the stainless feeler in the gap..then its too tight.
It also helps alot to have the spark plug removed while rotating the motor..then the position of the flywheel is easier to control.
You dont need to be exactly on the t mark, you just need to stop the rotation at a spot where the rocker is on the base circle of the cam. After a while you get the hang of where you can check it. Basicly if itll wiggle, then the spring isnt compressed, and the valve is closed..check it there.

NOTE: I have heard of people stating that when they got to the valves they
were in spec. If in spec is when you can pull the feelers out but not push
them in how could you tell if they are in spec since you couldnt put the
feelers in? They are only in spec in my opinion AFTER you adjust them. Some
of the pictures above were from the service manual which does NOT show a
feeler gauge for each valve. I have always been told that you MUST have them
so that is what I do."

Wolverine Exhaust valve tight. Symptoms?
 

Well, I ended up buying the Motion Pro Tappet set. I recieved them in today and they are vey nicely made. I will be readjusting my valves Wednesday to make sure they are 100% right.
When you have the feeler gauges in there how tight do you want the clearance? Meaning should you be able to remove it and reinstal it? Or just enough to be able to slide it back and forth and feal the friction, then when removed it can not reinstal it?