02 Warrior clutch lever very very hard to pull!
 

The clutch lever on my 02 warrior is extremely hard to pull. It takes a lot of hand effort to pull that sucker. My dad's got a yamaha bike, a tt225 and it's a night and day difference. His feels smooth and linear almost like a hydraulic clutch, mine's so hard to pull, even a little pull, that it makes shifting during trail riding and uncomfortable chore.

I did notice the spring under the clutch lever on the outside of the transmission case is broken. Was this a helper spring to make the clutch easier to pull?

I also heard something about a mod to use a raptor clutch cable, I'll do anything to make this easier...

mine used to be hard and then i screwed in the little adjustment on the lever. i screwed it in, and it actually made my clutch work a little better which surprised and confused me at the same time.

yea the pull on warriors is pretty hard, it doesnt bother me that much, im used to riding older dirtbikes and there clutch pull is hard also, the raptor 350 clutch perch mod is well worth it, its wayyyy easier to pull and more comfortable.

I don't know what kind of bikes you've ridden, but I've ridden a 78 yammy 250 dirt bike which my dad bought new, a 84 honda 250 dirt bike, a 92 honda 225 dual purpose and a 99 kawi 125 2-stroke and they all had normal clutch lever pull compared to this.

Anyway, back to the matter at hand, can you tell me what's involved with this mod? Someone have a link to it? Am I changing the clutch lever itself or just the mount? The cable as well???

a 76 honda cr 250m elsinore with heavy duty clutch springs and stuff, you might not be able to view this unless you register im not sure... YFM350.COM - Login if you cant i advise to go ahead and sign up, theres pictures and it walks you through it all.

but basically its around $30 bucks new for all the parts

5YT-16340-00-00 PUSH LEVER ASSY $9.07

90508-16022-00 SPRING, TORSION $0.95

5YT-15441-10-00 HOLDER, CLUTCH CABLE $6.41

95817-08045-00 BOLT, FLANGE (95802-08045-00) $0.95

5YT-26335-10-00 CABLE, CLUTCH $10.83

Great link, thanks. I never knew about that web board!

yea its the holy kingdom for anything YFM 350, ive been using it for a few years, i had to sign up again recently since i forgot my old username and pass, Dave76, YamaRider and JasonP have been there the longest and know the most.

It could be your clutch basket is wore it make it hard to pull in the clutch leaver

Worn in what way? Isn't the clutch basket just a metal cup that holds the clutch discs? Forgive me, I'm a longtime car gearhead but a realitive noob to working on atv's.

Wow, I just did this mod this weekend and I am impressed. Week before last we got a little snow and I decided to go out and play in it. After about 5 donuts and a ride up the road and back my clutch cable busted up by the handle. I had read about this mod before but didn't really think much about it. Well I decided since I was going to have to replace the cable anyway I might as well try this mod off of the Raptor. I was pretty skeptical since it really isn't much different but I figured it was worth a try and other people talked like it really made a big difference. Well I was shocked when I finally got the parts and the opportunity to put it together. I don't know if my particular clutch cable was just that bad but it made a huge difference. I wish now that I would have done this earlier. 40 bucks shipped was well worth it.

Yeah, just get a new clutch cable, you'll be surprised at the difference it will make. Most people replace them when they break, but they should really be replaced at least every few years.

the rappy mod is great or you could do the magura hyd. clutch if you feel like spending more

does anyone have a new link to how to do that warrior to raptor clutch perch mod? the previous post with the link doesnt work... that site is down i guess. i am interested in modding my warrior clutch lever too...

It is actually pretty intuitive. Order the listed parts. Everything basically hooks up the same way but you will route the cable on the flywheel side of the motor, (left side if your sitting on it). Then there is a bolt hole on top of the motor that you use to mount the cable holder. If you get it and decide you need some pictures I can get you some but it really isn't hard.

thats cool, thanks man. i just got a new cable today, and i could tell a huge difference. but i am having another problem. recently i have upgraded to a single pull carb ( the 92 and back had a double pull cord) and the problem is, that i dont know where to properly secure the new cable. As of right now, when i turn the handlebars all the way to the right it bogs out, then if i turn them all the way to the left it revs up a lot! I figure it needs secured down, but the other assembly was different. Any pics would help..

So you got a new throttle cable not a clutch cable, right? I can't help you with the throttle cable attachment much. I have an aftermarket carb but here are some pictures of the cable routing. I don't have a good picture of it up by the steering. It does run right through there but it isn't tied to any of it.

Attachment 18884

Attachment 18885

yeah i actually got both. The new clutch cable made a drastic difference, so that problem is fixed. As for the throttle cable, it looks like my cable leads into the carb differently than yours. Your cable enters the top of the carb while mine enters on the side or close to the middle. I guess i need to see about routing it differently, because where it sits now, i can just move the throttle cable around by hand and the carb will run differently... i can crank it all the way to the left and the carb opens up full throttle! Im thinking that maybe i just need to fabricate a piece to hold it place, or just keep fine tuning and tweaking... Thanks for the pics! I appreciate all your help!!

One more question though..... if i have a new axle, can i still use my old bearings if they are good? or should i just spend another 40 bucks and buy new bearings?

I don't know exactly what to tell you on the throttle cable. Sounds to me like it is almost to short and not mounted very good so that when you turn left you are stretching the cable out and making it pull. There should be plenty of slack in the cable so that it never gets tight when you turn.

As far as the bearings on the axle it is up to you obviously. Think of it like this, since you already have the rear end apart to replace the axle is it worth having to tear into it again if the bearings go out a month from now? If it were me I would plan on doing it all at once but I have never replaced either the axle or bearings so i don't really know how bad it is.

Beastly,
Did they just change the yfm350.com site? I haven't been over there for a while. It looks pretty good.

yea the site isnt a proboards site anymore,its got a way better setup now, it definitely sounds like that throttle cable is routed wrong it needs a good bit of slack, you should be able to lock the bars left and right with no throttle change, if you get a new axle definitely get new new bearings you dont want old bearings wearing in on a new axle, that and its just easier to do since it will all be apart.

yep someone bought it out and changed over to a whole new system