1998 Big Bear 350 4x4 - Rear brake nearly useless
 

I just got a '98 Big Bear 350. The front brake lever works correctly. The rear brake lever and pedal does nothing at fully depressed.

I followed the manual in calibrating it correctly but neither the hand nor foot rear-brakes do anything at all. I can get them to work a LITTLE bit by completely bottoming out the adjustment screws at the rear brake but this is not ideal, per the manual.

What is the problem and how would I go about fixing it?

Has the cable stretched and needs replacing?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Are you using the Clymer manual? It's very detailed. Mine's a Moto 4 350 4x2, with cable actuated rear with a disc in the back. I have it dialed in pretty well. But I have problems with the front drums which suck anyway. That rear disc is super strong EBC type severe duty and does the job for the most part.

I'm using the Yamaha Service manual for my atv.

Ideally, when the atv is dialed in, I wouldn't use the front brakes at all but right now it is all I have.

I'm thinking that my issue isn't a "setup" issue but that something needs to be replaced. Do brake cables stretch?

Check wear on your rear disc or drums if you have that kind of setup. Get EBC type if you need new pads. I don't know about cables stretching, but that doesn't sound normal. On mine it's just a foot brake pedal for the rear and a right handlebar pull for the front. No master cylinder, just cables.

On the 98 Big Bear 350 4x4 there is a left handlebar lever + right foot pedal for rear brake. There is a right handlebar lever (with brake fluid reservoir) for front brake. Boiled down: front brake = disc, rear brake = drum

After doing a little bit of research on drum brakes, it looks as though an explanation for my issue could be that the drum shoes are worn down and in need of replacement. I've ordered a set of EBC 516 grooved shoes to throw in there.

Thanks a lot for your help, NukaCola; also, I'm a Fallout fan as well.

I replaced the drum brake shoes this weekend to no avail. The old shoes had plenty of life left in them, though I replaced them anyway.

To reiterate, I can still fully adjust/tighten the brake rod from the right pedal brake and make the drum brakes work well enough. Unfortunately the left hand brake (rear brake), fully adjusted/tightened, still has no affect on the rear brake.

Would this mean that the cable is too long? I'm thinking that maybe I should shorten the cable a bit.

Thank you so much for your help.

At that point I would be stuck. Do you have a manual? I'm not a great mechanic, although I wish I was gifted with that skill set or more learned in it. page 95 of my Clymer manual describes the process, but I don't have a scanner.

I would really recommend the book. Clymer manual for moto 4 and big bear 1987-2004. I got one for around $20 new.

Nukacola, page 95 of your manual describes what process?

I have the yamaha service manual so I can lookup whatever process may be necessary.

Rear drum adjustment and free play adjustment (1996-on models). It has figures and refers to previous pages as well.

I highly recommend the book!

I think I got mine from Amazon:

Nukacola, thank you for the input. I have already adjusted the tension and free play on all parts of the rear brake system. The problem is that from both ends of the adjustable spectrum the rear hand brake does not engage enough to brake the atv.

Right, so you have drum rear brakes. I am not familiar with them as Yamaha seemed to be changing rear brakes every couple of years in the 90s, but if they are similar to Honda, Suzuki etc, the cam will be splined and you can remove the lever from the cam and put it on another spline to take up the slack in the cable.

I think Mechanical Drum brakes are suppose to be almost useless from the start.

My 350 Grizzly has them also they work like crap and their is nothing wrong with them. LOL

Thank god for good hydraulic front disk brakes and engine braking.

Here here.