Hi guys, I had to pull a Blaster apart and now I have it back together and the clutch will not disengage. I have followed the service manual on adjustment procedures and followed it precisely. The clutch springs are torqued to the right value, the ball bearing between shafts is there, the clutch arm is lined up to the case indicator, they are not new clutch plates, and I am running Amsoil in the trans case. Rather than taking the case apart all the time, I am leaving it off and trying to rotate it by hand to see if it will disengage, don't know if this is a good way to check it or not, but it is still dragging. Any other ideas?

 

Were the clutch plates soaked with oil prior to reinstalling them?

 

New friction plates,steel plates and springs for 30 bucks makes it worth while to just change them out and only having to mess with clutches just once. Same for pulling carbs. Always install a kit instead of just cleaning one and having to pull one back off again if you have problems.
Yamaha Blaster 1988 2006 Clutch Kit Discs Plates Springs | eBay

 

Thanks guys, I didn't think there would be a kit like that for that cheap, think I will go that route. No they were not soaked prior to installation. They aren't new, so I didn't think that would be necessary. How long should I soak the new ones for?

 

Just oil plates up,don't soak them as they'll get soaked soon enough when installed and up and running. Plus check the sides of the clutch basket where the plates fit for any deep grooving over the years that cause plates to stick. That's where a little filing on the rough edges would help also. Just like this guy in the pic did. Doesn't have to be smooth as glass,just the rough edges. Too much and plates will chatter.

 

I did read that they weren't new in your first post . I always soaked mine for a few hours, it was what I was taught many many years ago but as OPT has mentioned, all one really needs to do is ensure they are good and oily. Question....have you started it yet? And what type of lube/oil did you use in the tranny? I ask these questions because I have two 2-strokes, both have almost new baskets and clutches, and cables are adjusted correctly, and both of them still drag a little until the oil has warmed a bit.

 

You might try either Motul or Silkolene gear oils that our fanatical cross country and enduro riders used and see if it helps on any dragging. These guys swore on these two oil brands and they were our best sellers then Maxima and Belray Gear saver brought up the rear. Motul and Silkolene were expensive oils,but if these guys had encountered any problems we would have been the first to know.. Sold most of the cheaper Belray to pleasure riders and weekenders and imo was an over looked good oil.

 

I don't mean to hijack the mans thread but...specifically which Silkolene do you recommed for my two strokes ( so many choices ? The Belray gear saver performed the worst for me ( tho I know its good oil and I'm a Belray fan ). My son and I are currently using Yamalube four stroke oil, I think its 15W40, but both the YZ250 and the Banshee still drag a bit until the oil warms up for a few minutes.....especially the Bashhee.

 

A lot of Ktm and Husqvarna 2 stroke riders chose this one for the gear boxes.http://www.motosport.com/silkolene-comp-gear-oil Doesn't show for atv use,but I'm sure you could. This one does.http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...FQcLaQodzCsPpg Plus plenty of riders used this.http://www.motosport.com/product?psr...FYkCaQodcFYBNw

 

^^^^^Thanks, I will try one of these the next time we change the oils in the bikes......