Best Carb Rebuild Kit for '05 Bruin 350 4x4
#1
Best Carb Rebuild Kit for '05 Bruin 350 4x4
So I've got a 2005 Bruin 350 4x4 that has been sitting for five years and won't start. I want to rebuild the carb as part of getting it going again. I don't really have any experience with small engines but I have some service manuals. Would anyone suggesting a specific kit brand or rebuild kit?
I was looking at these two for starters and would be interested in opinons on those as well.
2005 Yamaha BRUIN 350 4X4 Moose Carburetor Repair Kit | MotoSport
https://www.mfgsupply.com/atv/atvcar...s/26-1264.html
Should I just buy a new complete aftermarket assembly? If so what brand would be most reliable in terms of running well and longevity?
Thanks for any guidance
I was looking at these two for starters and would be interested in opinons on those as well.
2005 Yamaha BRUIN 350 4X4 Moose Carburetor Repair Kit | MotoSport
https://www.mfgsupply.com/atv/atvcar...s/26-1264.html
Should I just buy a new complete aftermarket assembly? If so what brand would be most reliable in terms of running well and longevity?
Thanks for any guidance
#2
Others will disagree, but as someone who has cleaned out well over a hundred Quad carbs, just clean it out, no rebuild kits, no altering the mixture screw. I always remove the jets and blow through them and the passages they came from with compressed air. Get the float bowl clean, and if it contains water, the tank will too, so drain as much as you can out of the tank. It is unlikely to start on old fuel anyway.
Chinese aftermarket carbs are made to fit several different models, so may not have the right jets in for a Bruin, nor will the idle mixture screw be set for it. Do you want the hassle of re-jetting and setting up rather than just cleaning the one you have?
Chinese aftermarket carbs are made to fit several different models, so may not have the right jets in for a Bruin, nor will the idle mixture screw be set for it. Do you want the hassle of re-jetting and setting up rather than just cleaning the one you have?
#3
I'm one that has to respectfully disagree on just cleaning carbs,especially one that has been sitting 5 years.I also have cleaned more carbs than I ever care to remember. People on the forums have posted over and over about taking carbs apart and cleaning as many as 4 or 5 times and still having problems.They give up and buy Chinese carbs that may give them more problems. Once is all that a carb should have to be taken apart. Needle and seats are a common wear items along with float arms and pins(dealer items) on some carbs.Ethanol fuel and plain wear and tear over the years destroys rubber parts and even metal tipped float needles.Even the newer viton tipped needles aren't immune from effects of ethanol and wear. Get a good Japanese Shindy carb kit for the price of an oem needle and seat,clean it out,install the kit,flush your tank and at least you won't have to go back into the carb.04-06 YAMAHA YFM350 BRUIN 350 SHINDY CARBURETOR CARB REPAIR REBUILD KIT 03-321 | eBay
#4
#5
I just wanted to add that I also found this video extremely helpful in removing the carb from the quad without messing anything up. Maybe others will find it to be an equally helpful resource.
The only issue I had on the Bruin compared to the Kodiak in the video was removing the hex-head bolts that attach the carb to the cylinder block. The way the throttle cable assembly is attached to the carb, it completely blocked access to the hex-head bolt on the lower right side of the carb. I could not find a properly shaped or angled hex key to get at that bolt. I did not want to damage either of the rubber hoses/boots on either end of the carb (the ones that attach to the air box and the cylinder block) and I didn't really have the room to wiggle the carb out of the boots. I solved this by removing the bolts that secure the air filter box in place and partially removing and sliding back the air filter box enough to pop the carb up from the boot attached to the air box and then back from the boot attached to the cylinder block.
I just wanted to pass this info along as I am having a very difficult time finding service guides/demos/manuals specifically for the Bruin. Lots of stuff out there for similar models, but I am finding a few differences here and there in the way things are put together and again, not much out there specifically focusing on the Bruin.
Thanks again for the advice regarding my carburetor questions. It was helpful.
The only issue I had on the Bruin compared to the Kodiak in the video was removing the hex-head bolts that attach the carb to the cylinder block. The way the throttle cable assembly is attached to the carb, it completely blocked access to the hex-head bolt on the lower right side of the carb. I could not find a properly shaped or angled hex key to get at that bolt. I did not want to damage either of the rubber hoses/boots on either end of the carb (the ones that attach to the air box and the cylinder block) and I didn't really have the room to wiggle the carb out of the boots. I solved this by removing the bolts that secure the air filter box in place and partially removing and sliding back the air filter box enough to pop the carb up from the boot attached to the air box and then back from the boot attached to the cylinder block.
I just wanted to pass this info along as I am having a very difficult time finding service guides/demos/manuals specifically for the Bruin. Lots of stuff out there for similar models, but I am finding a few differences here and there in the way things are put together and again, not much out there specifically focusing on the Bruin.
Thanks again for the advice regarding my carburetor questions. It was helpful.
#6
Good video. If you need a manual that can possibly help on this and other repairs here's one from Trade Bit.https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail....service-manual Plus you can do a search in the forums and come up with posts like this that may be helpful. https://atvconnection.com/forums/yam...ml#post3217153
#7
Thanks for the links- the carb rebuild writeup is great. I did purchase and download that manual but it turns out that the file that downloads is actually the service manual for the YFM400FAR, which seems to have quite a few differences from the Bruin 350, which I think is the YFM350FAV. The closest I have found so far is the manual for the YFM350FWB. So far between the manuals I have been able to piece things together. I am a little stumped on my next problem however, and will continue to look for resources.
Thanks for your kind support & advice.
Thanks for your kind support & advice.