2000 Kodiak 400 Centrifugal Clutch Assembly Issue
#1
2000 Kodiak 400 Centrifugal Clutch Assembly Issue
Hey Guys, I picked up an old 00 Kodiak 400 (It's a Hi/Lo range model so no CVT) a few months back for cheap and got it running it needed a timing chain at the time but was otherwise in great condition for 13,000kms lol, I got it up and running pretty quick but after putting a couple hundred kms on her I started noticing it's slight clutch slip getting worse. So I pulled the cover and ordered up a DPK HD Shifter clutch pack and springs which worked out great, however I wasn't even thinking about the centrifugal wet clutch at the time and while re-assembling I figured I may as well pull it out of the carrier and replace the one way bearing as I was in there which was a good thing because it was absolutely toast (I can't believe it even moved it was that bad.). So I looked around and ordered and finally settled on ordering a Caltrics Centrifugal rebuild kit which I elected to run a set of Straightline Performance springs with, I finally found time to put it together last night and now that the new friction weights and springs are installed the clutch no longer fits into the carrier it seems the heel of the clutch is out to far on the weighted friction material which is causing my issue. Has anyone ever seen this happen before? Is it possible the Straightline Springs are pulling the tips of the weights in to far causing the heel end to push out causing my issue? I do have another set of slightly less aggressive springs I can try but I would like to avoid using the almost 20 year old stock springs if possible. What do you guys think?
#2
Something doesn't look "right" about how those springs are hooked into the shoes. Difficult to explain, so I googled a decent picture, and found this on another site https://www.grizzlycentral.com/forum...ee-photos.html the third picture shows how they should hook in.
#3
Turns out that the Straightline springs I had ordered where defective, the eyes where not correctly bent which I should have just accepted right up front instead of being bullheaded and putting them in anyways lol. I got it together using the Caltrics springs that came with the clutch itself as I should have anyways however I now have a new issue, the bike wants to keep moving when you come to a stop in any gear like the centrifugal is always engaged. I put a new one way bearing in when I changed the clutch green dot pointing towards the outside of the case the same as the one I removed and from what I have read it would not move at all if I had put it in backwards. I set the shifter clutch increase decrease until there was resistance and then back 1/8th of a turn as per the manual I had access to but that really shouldn't have any bearing on the bike wanting to move sitting still should it? Does anyone know what might be causing this issue before I pull the side cover back off?
#4
The first question, is the idle speed low enough? If it is set too high the clutch will be engaged all the time. A while since I did one, but I think the diaphragm spring will dampen movement of the shoes, so is this fitted correctly (can't see how you could get it wrong though).
I think the bike would move if the one way was in backwards, it would be engaged all the time.
I think the bike would move if the one way was in backwards, it would be engaged all the time.
#5
The idle was a touch high so I backed it down no change, so for ***** I backed it down to the point the bike would almost stall still no change. I pulled the side cover off again to double check my work and it's all together as per the manual, I am starting to think that I must have a defective centrifugal clutch assembly or the springs they sent are just plain too light for the weights?
#6
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