Large round main jets. Pull the gas line from the carb and crank the engine over. Should be a steady sometimes pulsing stream of fuel. If it has,then you can rule out the fuel pump as a problem. Just feel the exhaust flow. Should be a strong flow from the muffler. It does have a carbon clean out plug on the bottom of the muffler that you can remove,hit the pipe with a dead blow hammer all around and drive around with the plug out for awhile to see if it helps.

 

What's your thoughts on the slow to rev up thing?

 

This can still be a carb problem or even a clutch problem if you haven't checked into this.Worn belt,worn ramp buttons,dirty clutches from belt dust,sticking clutch plain bearings,etc. Clutches can cause bogging,hesitation problems similar to what carbs can do.

 

I'm a little scared to tear into that clutch I have a feeling it's gonna be real bad cause of how old the machine is, by the way I was looking at the chart you sent elevation here in salt lake is about 4500, 9500 were I go riding, so I'll order some jets and I'll check the other things you told me and I'll let you know what I find, thanks for all your help and replies your awesome !

 

The clutch looks really good to my surprise the weights have very little play the rollers still have the bushings and roll smooth belt looks brand new the plates are smooth with no cracks.
Should I lube the clutch up with anything?
Secondly runs a little better without plug in exhaust.
Thirdly pulled the fuel line off and the fuel line was full of fuel I let it drain in a container, turned the motor over with carb uninstalled with the house a couple inches higher than the pump and it would have a very slow drip.
Once I put carb back on it took a couple minutes before I could give it throttle without it dying. Seemed to me like it wasn't working properly but I don't know. Thanks

 

No lube on the clutches or belt.. You need to have the carb on,vacuum line from the carb to the fuel pump to accurate test how the pump works as the engine draws a vacuum through the carb to the fuel pump to get it pumping.Yes it will take a little time to fill the carb bowl up when empty. Drive clutches for the most part aren't the problem but the driven clutch takes most of the wear,but have to be taken apart to inspect the ramp buttons.If unsure,the driven clutch just pulls off the shaft after you remove the 1/2" bolt. You can take it in and have it checked out. May or may not need the ramp buttons replaced.One way you can tell is to pull up on the belt and remove it.Hold the outer clutch sheath and turn the inner one and let it snap back.If you feel/hear any metal type grinding,the ramp buttons are worn down. Another thing is to blow out accumulated clutch dust in an open area. Usually makes a dust storm.

 

I checked the fuel pump it works good.I turned the sheath's no sound just a smooth rotation,I did notice that I could pull the secondary in and out a tiny bit is that normal? I'm getting some more jets today from local shop which is were I probably should have started with but piece of mind anyway to have this tore down.

 

Normal for a little in and out play on the transmission input shaft.

 

Put a137.5 jet in doesn't seem to be starving for fuel now. What threw me off is the guy I bought it from had a 110 jet in it. Anyway OPT I was running it and noticed the primary moving toward the secondary when I revved it up. Crank bearing or bushing? I think that's were my noise is coming from.

 

Man I wish you'd mentioned it had a 110 size main jet earlier... That small of a main jet isn't even on the chart! Closest size to it was a 117.5 main for use in over 12,000 + feet at around @ 80 degrees temp. No wonder it stumbled and hesitated.. If the engine's moving outward,usually the motor mount has separated. Just use a pry bar and lift up on it. Noise you're probably hearing is the front clutch hitting the clutch cover. The early model covers were bad on getting hot, warping or melting because the cover was molded too close to the shape of the clutch.Later model used covers (98 and up) are on ebay if it still makes noise after you stabilize the engine. Motor mount is a little over 16 bucks at these two places.Item#32.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse. http://cdn.partzilla.com/product/oem...0bfd7ab9c1.jpg Plus make sure the engine to clutch seal is still ok. Item#26. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
Later model harder covers are available on ebay but pricey on new ones.Used ones show up from time to time if you need one.5433542 Polaris | eBay