While riding this weekend I think I accidently fiqured out a way to lock the front end in and keep it locked. It could be beneficial sometimes,most times it wouldn't. Recognizing it is locked up and knowing how to get it unlocked is probably more important than how to lock it. Anyway, I was attempting to climb a very steep hill in reverse,AWD on. Close to the top the tires started spinning,causing the machine to go crooked and I had to abort the climb as there was now a tree in my path. I shifted into low and eased out on the brake(adc off) and desended the hill. When I did I could tell the front end was braking as well as the rear. Additionally I could tell by the steering,and general feel of the machine that the front was locked in. The further I continued forward the more it felt bound up(front locked in and trying to turn slower than the rear). I swithed AWD off but it was still engaged. With AWD off I put it in reverse and backed up and almosty immediately I felt it disengage.
So this led me to do some research to see if it was normal operation. Some of you may have noticed this characteristic before,I had not.
If found this:
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: NLATVGuy
BEGIN QUOTE FROM SNOWRIDE OF ATVFRONTIER.COM:
One of the drawbacks to the Hilliard clutch that Polaris uses for 4x4 is that there is no engine braking on the front tires (only the rear) Here's a little trick.
I copied this from another forum. It is an e-mail straight to hillard corporation who supplies Polaris.
I wrote to Matt Cowen, the Engineering Product Manager at Hilliard Corporation and asked a few questions about the Hilliard Overrunning Clutch used in the Sportsman ATV's.
First my questions, followed by the response from Hilliard with their permission to share the information:
1) I regularly engage the AWD clutch for 4-wheel engine braking by causing the rear wheels to slip in reverse, stopping, then putting the machine in forward before descending the hill. Will this harm the clutch at all?
2) When I perform the above maneuver the clutch remains engaged, even while powering forward, until I switch off the AWD engaging coil. Is this normal operation for the clutch?
3) Is there a way to engage the clutch prior to wheel-spin, allowing me on-demand AWD?
The condition that you are asking about above is called "wedging". What you are doing is locking the rolls in the reverse profile of the clutch (it is a bi-directional clutch set-up) and proceeding in the forward direction thus not allowing the clutch to overrun (which is the normal condition). This in turn locks up the drive train and makes the system steer like a fully locked differential. This condition is
Advantageous if going down a steep hill because it will only allow the front wheels to move as fast as the drive train. This will fully utilize the engine brake because when going downhill the weight distribution of the bike goes to the front end and that is where you want the majority of your traction.
This "wedging" will not hurt the front gear case, but it could accelerate the wear of the the drive train components (such as the front prop shaft) because it does completely bind up the system and the bike
will be very difficult to steer. Because of the binding and additional steering effort, neither Hilliard nor Polaris will recommend doing this.
You can get the system out of the "wedging" condition without turning the power off to the AWD system, but it is very difficult and
not always repeatable. The only true, 100% way to release the clutch is to turn the power off and put the bike in reverse. This will release the pressure on the clutch and the springs inside the clutch will return
the rollers back to the neutral position.
To answer #3, there is no way to drive the front wheels at the same time as the rear wheels without the rear wheels slipping. The bike is geared to have a 20% speed difference from the back to the front.
This means that it takes the rear wheel to slip or spin 20% (1/5th of a rear tire revolution) before the front wheel to drive the system. This is necessary to give the bike a tight turning radius and to prevent the bike from automatically "wedging". If the front to rear ratio was 1:1, every time you turn the handle bars even slightly, the front wheels would act like they have a fully locked differential and it would take
you 30 feet to turn a 90 degree turn (like driving a new Kawasaki Prarie with the front gearcase locked). Becuase when you turn, all of the wheels on the bike are now moving at different speeds dictated by the ground speed, and the front clutch would not be able to overrun. With the 20% speed difference, the AWD can be on all the time and it will only be there when you need it. You won't get any of the side effects
of all the other systems that don't allow you to turn the 4wd on and off. Basically, having the front wheels driving the same speed as the rear wheels would be like driving a tank and would be hard on the arms
and not very fun.
I hope I have answered all of your questions and not confused you to much. Browse through the overrunning clutch section on the Hilliard web site (www.hilliardcorp.com
) for more info on how overrunning clutches work if you have any more questions. Have a good day.
Engineering Product Manager
Drive Train Products
phone: (607) 733-7121 ext. 376
fax: (607) 733-1045
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