Bike does not run any better on choke. I have done a carb kit already, diaphram, needle, seat, and needle jet. When I say it backfires through carb, it doesnt sound like a normal backfire, it just like its coughing back through the carb and you can feel it when you squeeze the boot that connects the carb to engine, and carb to air box. I dont know if it is trying to blow the airbox off, I am going to look into that today. When I reset my valves we tried .006, .004, and .008. None really made any difference, I left it at .006. Now im wondering, when I set my valve clearance, the mark I used on the flywheel looked like an upside down V, is this correct or should I have been seeing a T? Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it. I have seen numerous post on the net about this topic but not much success in fixing.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: goodblasson

Bike does not run any better on choke. I have done a carb kit already, diaphram, needle, seat, and needle jet. When I say it backfires through carb, it doesnt sound like a normal backfire, it just like its coughing back through the carb and you can feel it when you squeeze the boot that connects the carb to engine, and carb to air box. I dont know if it is trying to blow the airbox off, I am going to look into that today. When I reset my valves we tried .006, .004, and .008. None really made any difference, I left it at .006. Now im wondering, when I set my valve clearance, the mark I used on the flywheel looked like an upside down V, is this correct or should I have been seeing a T? Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it. I have seen numerous post on the net about this topic but not much success in fixing.</end quote></div>

"T" This is the mark you set the valves to,BUT as you look at flywheel the "T" will be backwards,you will see the horizontal line first.

 

hesborn2fly, can you please send me a picture of your cam so I can see what a bad one looks like? It will be greatly appreciated!

 

I'll try to get you a pick tomarrow of what a bad one looks like, but basically you have three lobes. The two outside are intake and the middle wider one is exhaust. Most likely the two outer ones will look normal (smooth and shinny and appear full height). The middle will be ground down to the shaft of the cam and have little to no lobe shape at all. Thats bad!

 

Well, I am not happy! I spent lots bof time installing this new cam a rocker only to button it all up, fired right up, idles like a dream but does the same thing it was doing earlier (not accelerating). I know the timing is right (I pulled the stator plate and went off the drive gear marks), TDC mark in the window of the crankcase, driven gear is on properly with marks as they should be. Valves are opening and closing. I pulled the valve cover back off and everything appears ok. What could be wrong still. I mean its obvious that the cam was the problem. I didnt ever pull the head but could exhaust valves be sticking? This Sucks!

 

Geez, that hurts.

 

Tell me about it, this is killing me. I have gone back through everything and it seems like the cam problem is fixed and I rechecked the valve clearance to .006in. Now it is still idleing great but when you give it gas its backfing through the exhaust. I really dont know what else to do. Old Polaris Tech? Anyone? Anyone want a good deal on a sportsman?

 

I was told this may be caused by a dirty or bad key switch. I seriously doubt thats the problem, but I am going to have mine replaced and or cleaned so i can rule that out too. The guy who told me that is a very reputable Polaris Mechanic, I just cant make our schedules meet so I can have him look the bike over personally.

 

Mine has a brand new key switch. I just took the carn back off and pulled it completely apart and its soakin as we speak. Looked clean as a whistle so who knows. After this I'm rerally not sure what to look at yet heres the list of things ive done to this thing:
new starter
new bendix gears
new stator
new flywheel
new ignition coil
new ignition switch
new speedometer
new handlebar switch cluster
new camshaft
new exhaust rocker
new gaskets
new fuel filter
new airfilter
new battery
new fluids

Ive lost my shirt on this one luckely bought it real cheap hoping to make some cash, lesson learned but now I just need it to run. everntually it will make someone a nice sportsman

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: hesborn2fly

Mine has a brand new key switch. I just took the carn back off and pulled it completely apart and its soakin as we speak. Looked clean as a whistle so who knows. After this I'm rerally not sure what to look at yet heres the list of things ive done to this thing:

new starter

new bendix gears

new stator

new flywheel

new ignition coil

new ignition switch

new speedometer

new handlebar switch cluster

new camshaft

new exhaust rocker

new gaskets

new fuel filter

new airfilter

new battery

new fluids



Ive lost my shirt on this one luckely bought it real cheap hoping to make some cash, lesson learned but now I just need it to run. everntually it will make someone a nice sportsman</end quote></div>

One thing that some doit youselfers do is not have the exhaust detent spring and counterweight installed properly. this will cause only idle,but stumbles and wont excelerate. look at your manual and check that spring positioned right and counterweight will push up against stop and spring back! Recheck you manual if need to! If its a Polaris manual,will show a good picture. If cam timing and valves set right,ONLY thing can think of at this time. Just remove left cam cover and check! Hope this helps opt