Yes,the starter only has the one hot lead. The battery is grounded to the engine case,the engine has a ground wire on the top motor mount that grounds the engine to the frame as the main grounding point. Since the starter's touching the engine,it's already grounded.All the smaller harness brown(ground wires) usually terminate around the coil mounting bolt on the frame.

 

So all was good tonight, I got the piston installed, cylinder, and head put on. I bought a New Torque wrench, I've never used one, how hard can it be. Well......
I was torquing down the head, starting at about 10, think it calls for 20 ft pounds. Problem is, my torque wrench just kept torquing away. I was getting concerned that it was faulty, too late, one bolt snapped. After I realized I didn't have a ft pounds setting, I was on inch pounds. I would now assume that is 12 times more torque. I am hoping I can buy a new stud? Also, what are the odds that I would have warped the head and screwed the gasket?? Stupid mistake!!!!

 

Probably no damage to the head. You can get studs here for 3 bucks plus shipping.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse OR check ebay. They cost more on ebay,but include shipping. Be sure when everything is assembled,coolant is installed,to bleed the 10 mm bolt on the head or it can over heat and warp. Plus I wouldn't trust using the metal head gasket twice as it may not seal since it's already compressed..I'd get a new one also.

 

It sounds like you got foot pounds and inch pounds mixed up.

 

Yes, the wrench I had only has Nm and inch/pounds. I didn't realize that, but it should have failed in my favor not over tightening. I put it in my vise to see how much pressure I had to apply before it would release, I almost tore my vise off the bench, it never did release. I will have to return it as it is obviously no good....Not impressed!!!

On a side note, Can anyone tell me where the ground wire on the top motor mount connects too. I can't remember and the drawings I show the ground but not where it connects on the motor. I am guessing a head bolt, but not sure.

Thanks

 

No the ground wire doesn't bolt to the head. The top engine bracket mounts to the head,the motor mount goes through this bracket to the frame mount.One end of the ground wire goes on one side of the motor mount,the other end goes to the other side of the mount. It just makes a loop,but this grounds the engine to the frame. Items 1-7 at the top of the page.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Similar to this.

 

So I finally got the motor all put back together and installed. After adjusting the carb a bit, it seems to run pretty good. For my first motor tear down, I have to say I am pretty shocked to hear it run again!!!! I havent had a chance to take it for a spin yet. I was just reving it up and down a bit trying not to let it idle, I understand you are not supposed to keep it at a steady rpm during break in. The fan didn't come on, and from what I read it probly wouldn't in the 2 minutes I had it running. However, I read a post somewhere here where OPT stated what the replacement thermal switch would be at an auto part store instead of buying from polaris. But I can't for the life of me find the post. OPT, would you happen to know off hand. I would like to change it out on spec. I jumped the switch and the fan does work.
Thanks
mark

 

Your switch is at the top of the radiator. Just match this twin terminal switch up at any auto store. One that kicks on at 175 degrees or so is fine.The other one I posted was for a Wells SW526 with leads that was used on the 4 stroke radiators.

 

Thanks, I'll give that a try

 

Not sure how I can figure out how to rebuild a motor, but can't get gas from the tank to the carb!!!! Machine would run good for 20 seconds, then sputter. I realized it wasn't getting gas. I recleaned carb, checked float level all good. I pulled fuel line at carb and doesn't have a good flow. I replaced the fuel line originally and routed it between the tank and the rank support, then into carb. I thought that was the path. If I pull the line off the carb and lower the line, it flows good, rules out filter and hydro lock I think. I replaced the valve as well. I might put the original line back on and try it. It appears to have a pre-bent line. I don't have a sag in the new line, but the old line seems to be a stiffer line. Anyone run into similar issues before.

Thanks
Mark