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Counter weights usually aren't the problem on knocking noise. It's the spider itself where the buttons ride and the guide towers. If towers are heavily grooved replacing buttons may not help an old clutch. Also when the main bushing that the shaft rides up and down on wears it can cause an imbalance and vibrate and cause clattering.You might have a reputable shop look at it and see if it just needs to be replaced. I've had to do that a lot when clutches were neglected for years.
I put pvt cover back on and went for a 10 minute run around the block and up to the grass at the local school and went flat out, only went 31mph ( felt like i was going 50 )
the front brakes were stuffed so i took them off for testing purposes and just use rear brake and engine braking. I can push quad bike in Neutral with one hand ( before it took 2 people to push it with brakes seized ) with all wheels off the ground i can turn all the wheels with one finger.
i Put pvt cover back on and there is no rattly noises now , sounds normal.
Before i take it into a shop to look at, I know the tie rods have heaps of play ( and steering shakes at high speed ) and the toe in could be way out but is it likely to be loosing 30mph because of this ??? ( otherwise ill order new tie rods and adjust toe in before sending it to the dealer )
So i brought a whole new secondary clutch and put it on, makes no difference. I did cut out momentarily when i was going flat out the similar type of thing it does with the reverse speed limiter , so im guessing the engine was going max rpm. went for a 5min run and came back and took pvt cover off , primary clutch was almost to hot to touch, guessing thats normal.
Make sure the limiting nut hasn't backed off its threads or it will act on the clutches the same way an electronic limiter will act.item #8. If it has backed off,use blue locktite and stake it lightly.
That plastic limiting nut is loctited on from when the shop torqued spider back up. I rang some motorbike shops / polaris dealers today they are booked out for 1.5 months and not taking any jobs, was hoping to get it sorted so i can ride the dam thing! argh.
I explained all that had done with clutches and they seemed to think the problem was something to do with them. They also mentioned could be carb issue but it does 6500rpm, only other thing was the exhaust lobes. Noticed the belt has a bit of slack though. is it worth getting another one ? was planning to leave pvt cover off and put gopro looking at the belt so could see if its getting the full travel on the pulleys
So i brought another belt and it seemed no differnet or warn than the belt that was already on there. have tried with a new secondary clutch. for $100 usd i can get a new primary clutch but not ebs. would this work to test if my primary clutch is the problem ? Polaris ATP 330 Primary Clutch As New | Trade Me
At this point after all you've been through,I wouldn't throw money at more clutches or parts especially a non ebs clutch mated with the ebs drive clutch you have.Both were designed for different size belts. Let someone that deals with these look at what you have.Can save you time,money and frustration as to what you need to do.
Im still waiting inline for the dealers. Today i put a gopro camera on looking at the PVT. It looks like the belts move to their max positions when im doing the max speed of 30mph. I did notice the rpm only was at 5100 at full speed. When revving in neutral it goes to 6600 rpm before the limiter kicks in. Ive talked to the dealers before i can found these new facts and they had no idea what it could be. Would taking the top off to check the exhaust lobes be worth doing whiling im waiting ? I remember when i compression tested it, was 80psi then went to 140 psi with throttle right down. video of clutches while driving below
02-19-2017, 02:40 PM
