1) Engine problems.. If your quad wont run..post in here.

Daymak 260

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  #11  
Old 05-05-2013, 06:35 PM
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Ok. So I've done some rewiring. I started with main power supply and rewired all the way back to the ignition. So as you have indicated in another post I read power goes into the ignition in red and out in red/black. Then goes to quick connect. The wires from ignition switch to quick connect are damaged and I don't think I'm getting a good connection. I have two questions;
1. How do I test it with a meter? What setting? What am I looking for as an indication of bad connections?
2. If I need to replace the wire from ignition to quick connect, how can I do this? Can I just splice the wires together? From ignition switch to quick is red wire and Red/Black wire. (There is a blue/white wire and black wire cut flush to quick connect, I think it's head lights, which should be repaired but that is another issue)
Out of quick connect comes one red and one yellow wire.

Is there a way of redneck modifying the quick connect?

Also how do I test starter relay?

There is no fuse near the battery, can I install one? Are they difficult to find?

I have emailed Daymak, I am really hoping they can send me a wiring diagram! It's really disheartening because it is intermittent. Some times she starts and some times she don't I'm not complaining cause it keeps me occupied in the garage no wife and kids allowed lol!

Thanks again for any help.
 
  #12  
Old 05-05-2013, 07:09 PM
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have you found where the starter relay is, is it separate from the starter, in another post somebody has put pictures of a solenoid, there are 2 wires from start button that go to that, also a thick lead from battery to one post on it, and a thick lead to starter motor on the other post, if you connect the start wires to the solenoid and hit the start button it should make a click sound even with the battery and starter wires not connected to it
 
  #13  
Old 05-05-2013, 07:23 PM
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Ok so I should have indicated earlier, that the start button does not work. I turn the key as you would a car and it turns over, most of the time start right up.

Maybe it's the solenoid I'm trying to test. Off the solenoid there are 3 posts. One thick lead to battery and another lead tied to ignition switch. Second post has one thick lead to starter. Third smaller post goes to ignition switch.

I don't think it's the starter, or solenoid because it is intermittent. But please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
  #14  
Old 05-05-2013, 09:43 PM
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yep that's the solenoid

one side is constant power from battery, the switch is engage when u hit the starter switch, that allows power to travel from battery through solenoid to starter motor, take off the wires that run to the start button/switch, use a multi meter on them and test there is voltage there each time u press the button, if not that's your problem, everytime you press the button there should be voltage there.

if that's an issue you may have to trace those wires all the way back to the start button/switch and make sure no breaks, or just replace them
 
  #15  
Old 05-06-2013, 04:39 AM
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Is there a generic solenoid I can purchase to install? Beside the power to the switch there is a green/yellow and a red/yellow wire disconnected. I think these are for kill switch and actual start button. There is obviously a problem with the kill switch/start button. But for now I would like to deal with the solenoid.

I will test the solenoid later today and post my results. I've learned quite a bit by tinkering - that's the reason I want to repair. Not cause I'm to cheap, but because I want to learn how they work so when they break I can repair.
 
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:42 AM
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The ignition key itself may be a problem as well. Can I install a toggle switch instead? If I do that I will need to repair the kill switch/start button correct?
 
  #17  
Old 05-06-2013, 06:22 AM
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solenoid-you just got to match it up with what's available. most solenoids will interchange.
ignition-a toggle switch will work for on/off. that way you save the battery. you can wire it up for the off to kill the quad and therefore won't need the slider kill switch. BUT, you'll need the start button if you go with a toggle. if not, stay with the key, it'd be less thief friendly.
 
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Old 05-06-2013, 08:56 PM
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Tested the solenoid.
No good;(. Need to get a new one. Ill post again once it's installed. Probably not till the weekend.
Thanks again for all the help!!
 
  #19  
Old 05-10-2013, 06:38 PM
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So.....
Thanks to some persistence and lots of research on here.
I have fixed the quad!!! There were a few bad connections at the wiring harness, ground had break, bad solenoid, and spark plug needed to be replaced.

Special thanks to Jasper94, Vulgerwolf, and many many post with Lynn Edwards. Who by the way is the common denominator for success stories!!

I will definitely be using the posts here for future projects/problems!

Thanks a million everybody!!
 
  #20  
Old 05-10-2013, 10:14 PM
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i contacted daymak and they said the only wiring diagram they have is on the back pages of the owner's manual. they wouldn't send me one so if you ain't got a manual, just contact them at the daymak website and they should send you one.

good luck.
 


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