2000 Honda Rancher Engine Probs
#1
HEllo everyone i hope you all have good news for me.... I have a 2000 Rancher 4x4 ES and i just re ringed it cause it was blown smoke like a banchee the gap on the rings was like .070 thay were shot... I replaced and started it up GREAT no smoke but the knocking still there and worse... I adjusted the valve lash to .010 made sure it was full of oil gapped the plug and i had the barrel cleaned and polished ported the head cleaned the valves and fould out the valves are triple angled valves with super hardened seats.. New rings gap was less then .010 inches... But i also saw that the rod was pressed on and it had to up and down play but it had back and fourth play meaning front too back (front of wheeler to the back) Im in a bind i call my local dealer LArsons in cambridge minnesota thay said some play is normal but how much is some.. Im about to crack the case and get a new crank assy but rather not i think thats what it is but not for sure.... Also ids there any aftermarket crank assy for this so get more giddy up sounds like a lot of jibber jabber but my machine only has 350 miles on it and i love it and it rides awsome wheelies [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#6
That type of wear with such low mileage, I would be afraid that it was ridden hard for some extended time without oil. If true, and I hope not, the wear could be extensive.
In the 60s the easy patch for that was to use a heavy straight weight oil and add a can of STP to the crankcase. That would stop crankcase knocking immediately, ...not a cure but a patch. I'm sure how that would work with an ATV....
You should not operate the engine with the knock. The knock is sign of extensive damage that will only get worse/more expensive to repair.
In the 60s the easy patch for that was to use a heavy straight weight oil and add a can of STP to the crankcase. That would stop crankcase knocking immediately, ...not a cure but a patch. I'm sure how that would work with an ATV....
You should not operate the engine with the knock. The knock is sign of extensive damage that will only get worse/more expensive to repair.
#7
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#8
I ordered a new crank assy as we speak and the gasket AGAIN i hate to get the gaskets again can i reuse them if i didnt even get the engine warm? hell i heard the knock knock joke and shut her up let me know
#9
All the time and expense you are going through, it's not worth trying to reuse a gasket.
The quick test for crank to connecting rod (big end) wear is to hold the connecting rod in your hand with the crank still attached. Hit the top of the rod with a rubber mallet. If you hear a knock from the big end, you need new big end bearings.
The quick test for crank to connecting rod (big end) wear is to hold the connecting rod in your hand with the crank still attached. Hit the top of the rod with a rubber mallet. If you hear a knock from the big end, you need new big end bearings.
#10
I just got a used new crank off ebay with 2 new berings and the timing chain is this going to be a 5 star hard job to complete or can someone with moderate car mech can do this. I just nervous of springs popping out everwhere when i crack the case apart. Also is there anyone in minnesota that is a good place to bring it to at a resopnable price?


