removing DRIVE clutch ?'s
#1
I got my quad all torn apart and have been waiting for the drive clutch puller tool. got it the other day and its just a bolt like 10" long. ( for $35- ) so i put it in and tried to hold the bolt with end wrench and turn the clutch by hand couldn't do it. so I tried to put a hammer handle through the clutch to get more leveredge and still wouldn't even budge I am afraid I am going to break it. I would think when you buy a clutch removal tool it might also come with a spanner type wrench? how did you guys pull your drive clutch ? please help thanks Bill..
#2
Put your hammer back thru the clutch to hold the clutch still,tighten the puller pretty snug and give the puller a good smack with a hammer,you may have to tighten it some more.The clutch is just a pressed fit onto a tapered shaft.Hope this helps.
#3
I know it says not to but if you have a air impact gun lube up the threads on thr puller real good and rattle away.this normaly will work if you don't have air tools do the hammer handle thing through the floorboards to hold it and tighten the snot otta it then hit the end of the puller screw with a hammer. sometimes putting a boxend wrench on the puller and tightening while tapping the end with a hammer will work.
Good Luck those can be a pain in the a** put a little anti sleez on the crankshaft when you go back together for next time.
Jeff
2003 trailblazer RcR stage1 Milled Head
Good Luck those can be a pain in the a** put a little anti sleez on the crankshaft when you go back together for next time.
Jeff
2003 trailblazer RcR stage1 Milled Head
#4
i was goign to same pretty much the same thing ced
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1999 250 trail blazer
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k&n filter DG exhaust for now
just to make it a lil lounder
titan 489 xts on the back
maxxis razors on the front
full skid plate,bash gaurd
rebuilt trans,D.I.D chain
pro amor belt,scott grips
the newer model tie rod ends
12 t front 36 t back sprokets
neon shifter ****, pro burner lights
stronger back caliper holder i made at a friends shop
cut front fenders with the floor boards removed
makin aluminum dimond plate ones
--------------------------
1999 250 trail blazer
--------------------------
k&n filter DG exhaust for now
just to make it a lil lounder
titan 489 xts on the back
maxxis razors on the front
full skid plate,bash gaurd
rebuilt trans,D.I.D chain
pro amor belt,scott grips
the newer model tie rod ends
12 t front 36 t back sprokets
neon shifter ****, pro burner lights
stronger back caliper holder i made at a friends shop
cut front fenders with the floor boards removed
makin aluminum dimond plate ones
#6
Don't put antisieze on the end of the crank. You want that sucker to stay stuck when you get it tightened down. Otherwise it may slip under heavy loads. Kind of like not puttin antisieze on lug nuts. You don't want them spinning off on their own.
#7
Sorry the antisieze thing is something my snowmobile service manuel says to do. But the bolt on the primary clutch is about twice the size and twice the troque. so I guess it may not be the thing to do on a quad. I should of thought about it before posting.
Jeff
Jeff
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#9
Or going the wrong way!!! LOL! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Sorry! I did that once.....a long, long time ago....4 guys taking turns standing on a crossbar lug wrench trying to get the lug nuts off an old ****** Pick Up! Who ever heard of "left hand" threads? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Sorry! I did that once.....a long, long time ago....4 guys taking turns standing on a crossbar lug wrench trying to get the lug nuts off an old ****** Pick Up! Who ever heard of "left hand" threads? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
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