Just did my first oil change at 12.9 hours on my 400 Sportsman. The manual recommends 20 hours but I did it a little early figuring on getting particulate matter, if any, out of the system so it won't cause any unnecessary wear. I pulled the plug on the oil reservoir and let it drain but noticed that the magnet on the plug was loaded with fine metal and sludge. Enough to make it look nearly like a Q-Tip. I figured on some metallic partices present but am somewhat surprised by the amount that I saw. Anybody else pay attention to theirs on their first change? Was it anywhere similar?

I refilled with Amsoil and I think I'm going to do it again at the 20 hour interval and see what it's like.

 

It's not unusual to see that sort of stuff at the first oil change, it should slowly diminish as the engine breaks in and the sharp edges are worn smooth.

 

ya thats normal... it will eventually go away like chilly said.

 

Whew!!! I thought I was HOZED!
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

I also have a 400 sportsman, same here had a few fileings.

and i was also wondering if you had to run it with synthetic oil to make it run right, like i know that it is better stuff becuse it don't breakdown as fast, but lets say you put 5w30 or 10w30 depending of the season in, will it hurt the engine or cooling or anything.

 

i think 5w30 and 10w30 are for cars, i thought quad oil is different weights and stuff.

 

Current model year specifies 0w40 Synthetic. I wouldn't deviate from the synthetic requirement, I personnally couldn't see any reason why you would want to. Good quality synthetics are far better than mineral type oils for reducing the friction coeffecient and keeping particulate in suspension for the filter to catch and they don't break down as quickly. I seem to remember reading that if you went to something inside the extremes of the 0w40 you would be OK, like 10w40, 5w30, etc., just not something like 0w50. 0w40 doesn't give you a lot of options as there isn't much that is not covered in that scope of viscosities. You would just want to make sure you tailored the viscosity to your specific weather and driving conditions which might call for more changes than necessary.

I am going with the Amsoil synthetic in my Ute. I know of several people that are using this stuff in big quantity commercial applications and have fantastic results. I'm putting it in my new truck also. If it isn't Amsoil then Mobil 1 would be my next choice. The kicker is don't skimp on the filter. Spend your money on a good filter, not the Fram crap that Wally World sells or so many other places.

 

I think you are OK....I have seen that on a bunch of new atv's in the past. I would change the next oil change soon too. I can't believe some people extend their first oil change....thats taking life from your engine no-doubt.

 

TreeDoc,

I want you to question the following advice as I'm not speaking from direct experience here.

I was told NOT to run synthetic in a new rig (your truck in this case) because it prevents the rings/cylinders from braking in properly.

I wouldn't run synthetic in your new truck until it's broke in or I was convinced this would not be a problem.

Lukester

I too found the sludge on my drain plug on it's first oil change. I haven't performed the second oil change yet.

 

Stick with the 0W-40. Anything different and you run the risk of not getting the proper lubrication to the camshaft during startup.