Scrambler Suspension short vs. long travel
#1
I have talked to a few different dealers and even HSP and HPD and no one knows. Can any one here tell me what Polaris changed for the long travel front suspension on the Scrambler? Was it something in the strut housing, a-arms, and frame? Does any one know what I have to do to change my 1995 over to the long travel or if it is even possible with out major modification to the frame?
Thanks,
Kevin
Thanks,
Kevin
#2
The long travel refers to the length of the front struts themselves.They give you 8.5" vs the 6.5" on the utility bikes.The depth of the housings should be the same.As for the rear yours should have the 8.5" which is stock for that year.Polaris went to a 10.5" for 01' and later.They just moved the shock mount back a little and put a longer one in.
#3
Originally posted by: 401
The long travel refers to the length of the front struts themselves.They give you 8.5" vs the 6.5" on the utility bikes.The depth of the housings should be the same.As for the rear yours should have the 8.5" which is stock for that year.Polaris went to a 10.5" for 01' and later.They just moved the shock mount back a little and put a longer one in.
The long travel refers to the length of the front struts themselves.They give you 8.5" vs the 6.5" on the utility bikes.The depth of the housings should be the same.As for the rear yours should have the 8.5" which is stock for that year.Polaris went to a 10.5" for 01' and later.They just moved the shock mount back a little and put a longer one in.
#4
I understand that the struts and springs are changes to make the long travel. My question is what else did they change? As it looks if I put the longer springs and struts on my 1995 it will raise the height of the bike. I am guessing that Polaris changed where the struts on the frame to keep the height down but no one seems to know this. Also if they did change the frame or something else for the long travel then by using the longer springs and struts I would change the front end geometry and possibly the handling.
Kevin
Kevin
#5
OOHHH OOOHHH me me I know this one. I have a 97 400L. I bought it from a friend. He had hit something a few years back with it. Well I noticed a little fluid on the FR strut. So I figured I would replace it. I went on Ebay and bought the whole FR strut from a 99. I got it so cheep I was just gong to use the shock and leave everything else off. The spring was different, and the brake disk was shaped a little different. Well I pulled my stock shock and then pulled the 99. Wow the strut was longer in the 99. It wouldn't work with my 97 spring. So I put the whole 99 strut spring hub everything on my FR. It rode very weird with a long travel FR strut and spring. It pulled pretty hard to the left. I then bought a new 99 FL spring and strut to match the R side. simply pulled my stock shock put in the new longer one. and replaced the spring. Very simple. I didn't notice any sitting height difference at all. BUT. From the launch. This thing feels MUCH better. I got a ton of movement now. It feels like it wants to hang the wheels all the time. Don't get me wrong my bike wheelies but when it comes down it stays much higher up under throttle. I am sure I got more movement than a normal swap. It turned out that my first shock I replaced was bent and not letting the bike move much. So with the nose down it wouldn't transfer weight to the back to pull the front up very high. Keep watching ebay. They are on there. I got my whole FR assembly for like $75. I have never seen it that cheep sence though. They usually go for a little over $100. The new shock for the other side cost me $90, and the spring was around $30 or so I cant remember.
#6
Ohh and the scrammy should be the same as my 400 sport. I kknow you are 4wd and all. but the shock and spring should be the same. Check out partsland.com. Check the strut part #'s for different years. Give them a call they are very helpful. I would say get the strut and spring from the correct year and it should work. It did in my case.
#7
They just made longer struts and changed the location of the upper strut mount on the frame a bit to compensate. I tried to install long travel on my 96 several years ago, got everything bolted together then noticed a bad case of negative camber. To fix it, you have several options: modify the frame to provide a narrower space between top shock mounts, install wider A-arms (+2"), install the Aaen dual shock system that includes revised top mounts, or live with it. The wide A-arm approach is probably the best way to go. I returned everything to stock because my Toyota PU couldn't handle another 4" of front width.
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