Anybody have a temp switch go bad?
#1
I got her all together last night and went for a test ride. Everything seemed fine except the fan does not come on now. The connector for the black wire coming out of the temperture switch was black and melted. The wire was broken inside the connector. I got a new connector and still nothing. I checked the fuse. Good.
I took both wires off the switch and jumped them. The fan works.
Then I went to the fan relay. I read that I was to jump the temp switch and also on the relay, the read/violet and black. When I turned the key on, it blew the ignition fuse. I replaced it and tried again with same results. I replaced it and put everything back together.
I am thinking the switch is bad. The last race was very muddy. The radiator was filled/caked with mud. The idiot light came on and I kept going a little bit. I went through some water and the light went out for 4-5 miles It came on again just before I crashed.
So, could the switch go bad from overheating?
I took both wires off the switch and jumped them. The fan works.
Then I went to the fan relay. I read that I was to jump the temp switch and also on the relay, the read/violet and black. When I turned the key on, it blew the ignition fuse. I replaced it and tried again with same results. I replaced it and put everything back together.
I am thinking the switch is bad. The last race was very muddy. The radiator was filled/caked with mud. The idiot light came on and I kept going a little bit. I went through some water and the light went out for 4-5 miles It came on again just before I crashed.
So, could the switch go bad from overheating?
#2
Yes they go bad. I go through at least one a year. Used to go through 2 a year. Where the wire connect to the switch. Sylicone the connectors to keep them dry. When they get wet they short out and take out your temp switch. I wired in a toggle switch on my dash so i can manualy turn on my fan if need be. When you relace your temp switch wire in a toggle switch also and then you'll have a back up just in case your temp light come on again during a race. You don't need any extra distractions during a race. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
#3
Excellent idea! Thank you.
I have also decided to chop up the dash and install temp & oil pressure guages. The idiot light just doesn't cut it. I need to know what's going on between my legs!
Any idea what I'm looking for cost? My dealer has always been fair on the prices.
This thing is draining me $$. I know it's from racing and that's the price you pay. If you don't want to be last you have to ride as hard as you can.
I bet that's what happend. Water got on the switch and burned it up. It was working moments before working the crash. That black wire & connector were burn't. The course, as stated before, was very wet & muddy.
I guess all those other times of swimming with my DS I was lucky. I will remember to silicone.
I have also decided to chop up the dash and install temp & oil pressure guages. The idiot light just doesn't cut it. I need to know what's going on between my legs!
Any idea what I'm looking for cost? My dealer has always been fair on the prices.
This thing is draining me $$. I know it's from racing and that's the price you pay. If you don't want to be last you have to ride as hard as you can.
I bet that's what happend. Water got on the switch and burned it up. It was working moments before working the crash. That black wire & connector were burn't. The course, as stated before, was very wet & muddy.
I guess all those other times of swimming with my DS I was lucky. I will remember to silicone.
#5
The fan temp switch is located on the right side of the motor where the upper radiator hose connected to the thermostat housing. There are to switches. The one at the very top has 1 wire it's the one that goes to the idiot light (red) the other is at 9 oclock and has 2 wires. Thats the one that turns the fan on and is the one you need to replace.
Not sure of the cost of everything I was just looking at a temp guage that on ebay right now for the DS and others for 79 bucks. looks like a nice setup. Others on here use both temp and oil pressure guages and kept the idiot light as well. They could prolly tell ya what they spent.
Not sure of the cost of everything I was just looking at a temp guage that on ebay right now for the DS and others for 79 bucks. looks like a nice setup. Others on here use both temp and oil pressure guages and kept the idiot light as well. They could prolly tell ya what they spent.
#7
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#8
I'm not sure. Why would you pull it out to test it?
I tested mine just now with it in. I unpluged the 2 wires and used a multi-meter. I am sure it's bad. It read O.L so I ran it to heat it up and tested again with the same results. The manual says it should have ran 0.1 Ohms when hot.
I will order one Monday and probably have to turn tricks to pay for it.
Ladies??
I tested mine just now with it in. I unpluged the 2 wires and used a multi-meter. I am sure it's bad. It read O.L so I ran it to heat it up and tested again with the same results. The manual says it should have ran 0.1 Ohms when hot.
I will order one Monday and probably have to turn tricks to pay for it.
Ladies??
#9
The reason i wanted to remove it was so i could test it in boiling water without boiling the bike
when its still on the bike i have no way of knowing the temp of the motor as i have not got a temp gauge fitted. (yet)
when its still on the bike i have no way of knowing the temp of the motor as i have not got a temp gauge fitted. (yet)
#10
Blue,
You test the temp switch with oHms meter.You test the thermostat in hot water.
I have been known to be wrong, though.
I like that set up on ebay! I am going to have a friend make the fitting that goes in the thermostat hose and use an AutoMeter Pro-comp meter.
You test the temp switch with oHms meter.You test the thermostat in hot water.
I have been known to be wrong, though.
I like that set up on ebay! I am going to have a friend make the fitting that goes in the thermostat hose and use an AutoMeter Pro-comp meter.


