if your shims are off like 4 or 5 thous, will that effect hp? say your intake is .002 and your exhaust is .012. will that effect alot?? thanks

 

The answer is YES!!! at .002 the valve will stay open slightly during compression stroke causing...well, a loss of compression. Eventually it will ruin the valve. Your exhaust being .012 won't really hurt anything but it will make some noise. Best bet is to set all four to spec before it gets expensive. FYI, the closing of the valve lash seems to be very normal on the bomb when new.

 

Borrowed information:

"Your valve gap (valve lash) needs to be between .004in and .006in or .1mm to .15mm. The valve shims are what
needs to be changed to adjust the gap. The valve shims come in a range of 2.00mm through 3.10mm thick and are 29mm
in diameter. Every .05mm = .002in. So if you have a shim installed that is 2.45mm and the valve gap reads .010 your
gap is to wide by .004in (010 - .006 = .004). In order to get a .004 thicker shim you need .05mm x 2 = .10mm
add that to the current shim of 2.45 and you know you need a 2.55 shim for that valve lash to be corrected. You
could use a 2.60mm shim and still be OK in this case as well. Since the allowable range is .004 to .006 and you’re
now at .006 going to a 2.60mm shim would put you at .004 and that is in the allowable range."

 

If you checked them you can replace them. I got my shims from a bmw dealer. The dude was cool he took my old one for other used ones that got me to .005! and no charge as well! free free free[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

I was considering taking my bike in to have the valve clearance checked (A...I dont have a feeler gauge, and B...well I am just afraid ill screw it up..lol) But I am just worried that the dealership wont actually do anything (or they may check it, but not adjust it) what does a typical valve check/adjust cost? about 100? My local yamaha shop is great for service, but they dont know jack about the bombs, and I could see that being a pain (trying to get the shims and what not)

 

65.00 to about 150 around here ..depending on what they do of course..

 

all you need to do is buy a feeler gauge that goes down to .012 in. about $5.50 pull your front plastic tank and valve cover, 4 bolts for the front plastic 4 bolts for the tank and like 8 bolts i think for the valve cover line up your timing marks on your cam shafts making sure the front lobes are facing forward and the back lobes facing backwards if the lobes are facing towards each other you are at top dead center but on 180 degrees off i beleive, then just see what size gauge you can slip under your cams, make sure your decompression lever is deactivated it has a spring on the exhaust cam you will see it so the feeler gauge does not go under it, oh yeah make sure you do it after your bike has been sitting for a day or two it makes a small differance on the thickness, when was the last time it was done? they say if it has a hard time starting when cold that is the first sign of your valves needing to be adjusted,m oh yeah you need to torque your valve cover bolts to 89 inlbs, so your looking at about 74.00 for a torque wrench and 5 for a feeler gauge for a total of 80 some dollars and the valve job has just paid for it self, thats how i look at it, let us know what you decide

 

This is what I used. Its Eaglecollector's web site. And yes it is that easy.Valve Adjustment Site from Eaglecollector. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

yes thanks you by the way eaglecollector

 

Dave, you can e-mail Larry (eaglecollector) as well and he is REAL patient...I know first hand.....lol
His e-mail addy is on his web site.


PS: He's also a neighbor so if he doesn't take real good care of you I will punch his lights out.....[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]