hi all, i have an 04.5 700 efi and went for an awesome ride on the weekend. machine worked well, but a couple of times if i slowed to a stop, or restarted it would sputter and kinda ran like if you were going in reverse without the overide button pushed in. sputter and would want to stall. if i turned on and off a few times, it seemed to correct itself. 2000 miles and this problem has happened about 4x. usually can get back going in two minutes or so. any ideas on this? was on a dry trail when happened all 4X. also, a couple of times the check engine light came on and off, checked everything and all seemed well. thanx guys.

 

Mine did the same thing... perhaps this thread will assist you: COIL

 

I’m betting it’s a wiring problem to your T-bap sensor. You’ll find it (the sensor) mounted in the top of the intake duct just ahead of your air box. Remove the seat and right side plastic and try giving the wires (4) going to the T-bap a tug and shake while the machine is running. If this doesn’t cause any running irregularities try it the next time your machine acts up. If it still doesn’t do anything just disconnect the electrical plug to the T-bap while the machine is acting up and see what happens.

Here’s the problem. The wiring and connector to the T-bap is part of the main wiring harness and can get stretched too tight as the motor torques itself around within the limitations of the motor mounts. This can be compounded by the crankcase vent hose that rests on the T-bap wiring and connector on its way to the air box. These two circumstances can conspire to damage the wiring to the T-bap, either before or inside the connector. If it’s before the connector you can solder the wire back together to fix it. If it’s broken inside the connector, well you’d better be under warranty because it’s part of the main wiring harness.

Check for the problem as described and see what happens. Keep in mind the machine will seem to run just fine with the T-bap completely disconnected (suffers from an almost unnoticeable loss of power through the entire range) but will act like it has dropped a cylinder or there’s a rev limiter choking it if the T-bap is hooked up and there’s a bad wire. That’s why disconnecting it completely while it’s running badly is an easy way to tell what’s going on.

If you figure out this is your problem and you’re no longer under warranty get back to me and I’ll tell you how to fix it without replacing the whole wiring harness.

 

My dealer claims Polaris is working on a kit that will just replace the wires and the T-BAP connector and remove the requirement to replace the entire harness. I'm gonna ask him if he has a status update. He told me this a few weeks ago.

 

I'll also bet this is your problem, as I went through hell trying to find it on mine and the dealer couldn't find it....it will get worse over time....

its easy to check, reach in the left hand front fender well and see if you can rotate your coil with your hand, if you can the bolt that mounts it is loose, if it is loose, then you are arcing from your coil, through your plug wire cap to the frame....you have to remove both coil plate mounting bolts, then tighten the coil bolt, which is a working chassis ground, then remount the plate....make sure you turn the coil so that the wires are not close to the frame...just for the heck of it

 

I've heard that rumor too, and I'm calling it a rumor because to my knowledge no "kit" is available yet to replace the T-bap connector. Thats why I made my own. Our machines are still under (extended) warranty but it just didn't make any sense to me to replace the entire wiring harness for the sake of one connector.

Between the T-bap advice and the coil advice I'm hoping we helped solve your problem sportsmaniac.

 

thanx so much for all of the advice guys......... i will have to check for these things when i get a little time. i hope its not the harness.................