? on HPR piston install
Mar 18, 2006 | 08:30 PM
#1
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? on HPR piston install
Anyone have a set of instructions for their recent HPR piston or 730 kit install,
mine have mysteriously vanished from the shop[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img].
I need torque #'s to finish things up and if I remember right on some of them they are different than what's listed in the shop manual for stock!
Also, anyone in Utah got 2 valve seals? Seems like eveyoneone is out and Ron Woods shipped 4 days after I ordered wont be here until the middle of next week[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img]
Getting frustrated[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
mine have mysteriously vanished from the shop[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img].
I need torque #'s to finish things up and if I remember right on some of them they are different than what's listed in the shop manual for stock!
Also, anyone in Utah got 2 valve seals? Seems like eveyoneone is out and Ron Woods shipped 4 days after I ordered wont be here until the middle of next week[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img]
Getting frustrated[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
Mar 18, 2006 | 10:22 PM
#2
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? on HPR piston install
Copy of the Piston Instruction Sheet- Hope this helps, I'm goin to the house!
Our FSR Forged Side Relief piston is the latest in high performance design and boasts the lightest weight, highest compression available for a DS650.
Please inspect your contents and note any damages that may have occurred during shipping- contact us immediately if there is any damage. This is for your protection so there will be no problem with UPS insurance as to whether they damaged it or you, the customer.
If you have ANY engine components that are NOT stock or are NOT from Horsepower Research, OR if your head or cylinder has been decked OR if someone besides Horsepower Research has performed a valve job, you must check piston, head, valve, and valve pocket clearances. Piston clearances can be affected by the machined depth of the valve seats, any gaskets NOT provided by HR, cams NOT provided by HR, stroker cranks, and aftermarket rods. We recommend a new OEM cam chain tensioner on engines with significant run time. We do NOT recommend manual tensioners.
DO NOT DROP YOUR NEW PISTON, fatal damage can occur if the skirt of the piston is dented. DO NOT use a hammer! If something does not fit, find out why. Never apply side loading to your rod to get the old piston pin out- this will damage your rod and cause premature ring wear on your new piston. DO NOT use any “magic” gasket sealant; HR gaskets MUST be installed dry. Never use o-rings with our gaskets. This is the highest quality gasket you can buy. Use all cylinder and head gaskets provided to achieve the compression you specified at the time of order.
For naturally aspirated engines, top and second ring must be gapped to a minimum of .022 of an inch - 4 stroke rings are NOT pre gapped unless you requested us to gap them and were charged on your invoice for this service - if there is any doubt, call us- improper ring gap WILL cause premature engine failure. The oil rail rings should also be checked. Call for nitrous and turbo applications. Do not confuse the top and second ring. They are the same thickness but different materials. Dots or letters must face up. The top ring has a chrome outside edge and “rings” when dropped on a table. The second ring has a black edge and “thuds” when dropped on the table. Ring end gaps should be opposite of each other once installed on the piston. On natrually aspirated engines- The top ring end gap should be positioned toward the intake side (call for Nitrous applications). Once again, follow our procedure, not the factory manual.
Spray down the bore of your new cylinder with WD40 and wipe clean with a white cloth. Repeat this process with a new cloth until the white cloth comes out clean. This is important to remove small engine wearing debris . Once your cylinder bore is perfectly clean, apply a thin coat of transmission fluid to the cylinder walls and wipe off any excess. Repeat this process on the skirts of the piston and the oil rings. Transmission oil is thin and provides quick break-in for the initial startup. Do NOT coat your new top rings and piston with motor oil before installing- we don‘t want motor oil baking into and between the ring lands. Do coat your piston pin liberally with motor oil before installing.
Install your first circlip with the piston out of the engine. Cover any openings in the engine before installing the second circlip with the piston on the rod. IMPORTANT: any burrs or high spots created on the piston sidewall while installing circlips need to be filed smooth or serious cylinder wall damage will occur. Also, check that oil rings float freely after installing circlips. Do NOT overlap oil expander ring butted ends.
Cylinder and piston installation is easiest with the crank locked at TDC using an OEM Bombardier crank locating tool.
The main case studs must be torqued to 37ft lbs. Put a small amount of motor oil on the bottom of the nut and on the threads of the stud before tightening. DO NOT over torque head bolts. DO NOT use OEM torque specs- they are wrong. Use a high quality torque wrench. Contrary to popular belief and opposing our competitors recommendations, over tightening the studs will cause warpage and is detrimental to head gasket sealing. Do NOT use aftermarket oversize studs- they are inferior metal quality and require excess torque specs! If you already have oversize studs, remove them.
The outer water-jacket bolts must be torqued to 24 ft lbs. Apply oil to these threads also. The cam bolts must be torqued to 37 ft lbs- apply LOCTITE
We recommend NGK 9 series spark plugs up to 11:1, and #10 series up to 14:1.
We recommend 93 octane up to 11:1, 100 octane up to 12:1, 110 octane up to 13:1, 118 octane up to 14:1
This is a modern water cooled Nikasil cylinder with a high performance, fast break-in ring package - the majority of the break-in occurs during the first 15 minutes of run time. Avoid multiple cold starts during this time. Do not run your motor rich the first 15 minutes or ring washing may occur. We recommend atv or motorcycle specific non synthetic wet clutch oil for break-in and a high quality wet clutch synthetic such as Bombardier or Klotz after break in.
This is a high silicone piston with dense construction. Do not be alarmed if your engine smokes at start up or during deceleration - this is normal until the piston heats up and expands.
By purchasing HR piston kits, you have entered into a non disclosure agreement NOT to copy or allow others to copy or otherwise use specs of your piston kit. Many hours of design, testing, and blueprinting have gone into countless pistons to arrive at the latest high performance kit for your specific needs. You have paid for this, and others should too. Thank you for your integrity and understanding.
Welcome to the Horsepower Crew!
(270) 334-3331 or omwracing@yahoo.com for Eric
(270) 462-2528 or recreationspec@aol.com for Randall
Our FSR Forged Side Relief piston is the latest in high performance design and boasts the lightest weight, highest compression available for a DS650.
Please inspect your contents and note any damages that may have occurred during shipping- contact us immediately if there is any damage. This is for your protection so there will be no problem with UPS insurance as to whether they damaged it or you, the customer.
If you have ANY engine components that are NOT stock or are NOT from Horsepower Research, OR if your head or cylinder has been decked OR if someone besides Horsepower Research has performed a valve job, you must check piston, head, valve, and valve pocket clearances. Piston clearances can be affected by the machined depth of the valve seats, any gaskets NOT provided by HR, cams NOT provided by HR, stroker cranks, and aftermarket rods. We recommend a new OEM cam chain tensioner on engines with significant run time. We do NOT recommend manual tensioners.
DO NOT DROP YOUR NEW PISTON, fatal damage can occur if the skirt of the piston is dented. DO NOT use a hammer! If something does not fit, find out why. Never apply side loading to your rod to get the old piston pin out- this will damage your rod and cause premature ring wear on your new piston. DO NOT use any “magic” gasket sealant; HR gaskets MUST be installed dry. Never use o-rings with our gaskets. This is the highest quality gasket you can buy. Use all cylinder and head gaskets provided to achieve the compression you specified at the time of order.
For naturally aspirated engines, top and second ring must be gapped to a minimum of .022 of an inch - 4 stroke rings are NOT pre gapped unless you requested us to gap them and were charged on your invoice for this service - if there is any doubt, call us- improper ring gap WILL cause premature engine failure. The oil rail rings should also be checked. Call for nitrous and turbo applications. Do not confuse the top and second ring. They are the same thickness but different materials. Dots or letters must face up. The top ring has a chrome outside edge and “rings” when dropped on a table. The second ring has a black edge and “thuds” when dropped on the table. Ring end gaps should be opposite of each other once installed on the piston. On natrually aspirated engines- The top ring end gap should be positioned toward the intake side (call for Nitrous applications). Once again, follow our procedure, not the factory manual.
Spray down the bore of your new cylinder with WD40 and wipe clean with a white cloth. Repeat this process with a new cloth until the white cloth comes out clean. This is important to remove small engine wearing debris . Once your cylinder bore is perfectly clean, apply a thin coat of transmission fluid to the cylinder walls and wipe off any excess. Repeat this process on the skirts of the piston and the oil rings. Transmission oil is thin and provides quick break-in for the initial startup. Do NOT coat your new top rings and piston with motor oil before installing- we don‘t want motor oil baking into and between the ring lands. Do coat your piston pin liberally with motor oil before installing.
Install your first circlip with the piston out of the engine. Cover any openings in the engine before installing the second circlip with the piston on the rod. IMPORTANT: any burrs or high spots created on the piston sidewall while installing circlips need to be filed smooth or serious cylinder wall damage will occur. Also, check that oil rings float freely after installing circlips. Do NOT overlap oil expander ring butted ends.
Cylinder and piston installation is easiest with the crank locked at TDC using an OEM Bombardier crank locating tool.
The main case studs must be torqued to 37ft lbs. Put a small amount of motor oil on the bottom of the nut and on the threads of the stud before tightening. DO NOT over torque head bolts. DO NOT use OEM torque specs- they are wrong. Use a high quality torque wrench. Contrary to popular belief and opposing our competitors recommendations, over tightening the studs will cause warpage and is detrimental to head gasket sealing. Do NOT use aftermarket oversize studs- they are inferior metal quality and require excess torque specs! If you already have oversize studs, remove them.
The outer water-jacket bolts must be torqued to 24 ft lbs. Apply oil to these threads also. The cam bolts must be torqued to 37 ft lbs- apply LOCTITE
We recommend NGK 9 series spark plugs up to 11:1, and #10 series up to 14:1.
We recommend 93 octane up to 11:1, 100 octane up to 12:1, 110 octane up to 13:1, 118 octane up to 14:1
This is a modern water cooled Nikasil cylinder with a high performance, fast break-in ring package - the majority of the break-in occurs during the first 15 minutes of run time. Avoid multiple cold starts during this time. Do not run your motor rich the first 15 minutes or ring washing may occur. We recommend atv or motorcycle specific non synthetic wet clutch oil for break-in and a high quality wet clutch synthetic such as Bombardier or Klotz after break in.
This is a high silicone piston with dense construction. Do not be alarmed if your engine smokes at start up or during deceleration - this is normal until the piston heats up and expands.
By purchasing HR piston kits, you have entered into a non disclosure agreement NOT to copy or allow others to copy or otherwise use specs of your piston kit. Many hours of design, testing, and blueprinting have gone into countless pistons to arrive at the latest high performance kit for your specific needs. You have paid for this, and others should too. Thank you for your integrity and understanding.
Welcome to the Horsepower Crew!
(270) 334-3331 or omwracing@yahoo.com for Eric
(270) 462-2528 or recreationspec@aol.com for Randall
Mar 19, 2006 | 12:04 AM
#4
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? on HPR piston install
Nate, them instructions were all wrong. You must follow these very closely.
First, remove both rear wheels.
Second, loosen chain as loose as it will go.
Third, fill it up with gas.
Forth, put air in just one rear tire.
Fifth, spin the right front tire one full rotation counter clockwise.
Sixth, put on some coutry music.
Seventh, grab a lawn chair, and ponder a while.
Eight, grab a torque wrench, and chuck it at the barking dog next door.
Nine, get out a atlas, and find a little town in Africa.
10, go inside for the night, we'll get back after it in the morning.
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
First, remove both rear wheels.
Second, loosen chain as loose as it will go.
Third, fill it up with gas.
Forth, put air in just one rear tire.
Fifth, spin the right front tire one full rotation counter clockwise.
Sixth, put on some coutry music.
Seventh, grab a lawn chair, and ponder a while.
Eight, grab a torque wrench, and chuck it at the barking dog next door.
Nine, get out a atlas, and find a little town in Africa.
10, go inside for the night, we'll get back after it in the morning.
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Mar 19, 2006 | 12:15 PM
#5
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? on HPR piston install
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Sound advice Jed, although you forgot step 7.a-1b, drink a whole bottle of crown and talk smack about how fast you going to be when you actually finish the job. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]
Sound advice Jed, although you forgot step 7.a-1b, drink a whole bottle of crown and talk smack about how fast you going to be when you actually finish the job. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]
Mar 19, 2006 | 12:33 PM
#6
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? on HPR piston install
Well, that was the instructions for a non drinker. For all the drinkers out there, just put, " Sit down, crack open a nice cold beer, drink until until its gone," between every step, and you will have it wooped.
Step 11. Go back out in the garage, sip on your coffee, cussing under your breath that it didnt finish itself.
12. Sit down and read the paper.
13. Kick the left front tire.
14. Grab your favorite country tape, and throw it in the player.
15. Go push the kids on the swing.
16. Eat some lunch.
17. Call one of your good buddys that likes to work on machines, and tell him you cant figure it out.
18. Sit behind your good buddy on a lawn chair, drinking a nice cold beverage, watching him do the job that you tried so hard to avoid.
19. Thank him for do it with a nice pat on the back. Just tell him you are out of beer until he leaves.
20. Go grab another beer, and sit and look at the great job you just accomplished.
My twenty steps to any ATV repair.
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Step 11. Go back out in the garage, sip on your coffee, cussing under your breath that it didnt finish itself.
12. Sit down and read the paper.
13. Kick the left front tire.
14. Grab your favorite country tape, and throw it in the player.
15. Go push the kids on the swing.
16. Eat some lunch.
17. Call one of your good buddys that likes to work on machines, and tell him you cant figure it out.
18. Sit behind your good buddy on a lawn chair, drinking a nice cold beverage, watching him do the job that you tried so hard to avoid.
19. Thank him for do it with a nice pat on the back. Just tell him you are out of beer until he leaves.
20. Go grab another beer, and sit and look at the great job you just accomplished.
My twenty steps to any ATV repair.
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Mar 19, 2006 | 08:34 PM
#7
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? on HPR piston install
I think Dsaholic musta got instructions on building his motor from you before he called me[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
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Mar 19, 2006 | 10:42 PM
#9
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? on HPR piston install
Hope you guys got further along than I did[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img], weather allowing I might make a mad dash to knolls or the mountian Thursday to do a little break in ride and see how it all turned out,
although after tonight its probably all under a foot of snow[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img]
although after tonight its probably all under a foot of snow[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img]
Mar 19, 2006 | 11:11 PM
#10
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? on HPR piston install
SLC, if the weathers good next weekend I will be heading down. I got the wifes Ds purring agian, so I will take that with the buggy. Marky is suppose to go down we me as well. Come along if you like.